Origin of Name :-
The name refers to an attractive natural pearl and
diamond pendent brooch believed to have been designed around the year
1890, that appeared at the Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches
Sale, 7664, held on April 29, 2008, at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers
Hotel, in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, under Lot No.154 and was sold for
$97,000, above the pre-sale estimate of $60,000 to $80,000.
An attractive antique natural pearl and diamond
pendent brooch
© Christie's
Characteristics of
the pearl and diamond pendent brooch
Description of the
design of the brooch
The design of the brooch is a scroll work, made of
yellow gold, incorporating floral and foliage motifs, and set with old
European cut diamonds. There are only two large natural pearls mounted on this
brooch. A 20-carat pinkish-white, button pearl mounted en tremblant as
the centerpiece of the brooch, and another 18.92 carat, pinkish-white,
oval, drilled, pearl drop suspended from the scroll work. The button
pearl mounted en tremblant forms the centerpiece of the symmetrical
motif that constitutes the brooch. The button pearl is surrounded by a
layer of diamonds; two foliage leaves mounted with diamonds placed
symmetrically on either side of the pearl; a scroll work mounted with
diamonds, placed symmetrically on either side, ending in a floral motif,
also mounted with diamonds. The lower part of the brooch looks somewhat
asymmetrical, but two symmetrically placed, smaller trifoliate leaf
patterns mounted with diamonds can be identified, from which the drilled
pearl drop is suspended. The almost oval-shaped pearl drop is suspended
by a bell cap fixed to its upper end. A round old-cut diamond is mounted
on the wire suspending the pearl.
Characteristics of
the two large pearls on the brooch
1) The pinkish-white
button pearl
The size of the
pearl in terms of its dimensions
The pearl that forms the centerpiece of the brooch is
a button-pearl with dimensions of 16.10 mm and 10.90 mm. By calculating
the variation in diameter of the pearl we can decided whether this pearl
is actually a button pearl or near-spherical pearl.
variation in diameter = (1 - shortest
diameter/longest diameter) x 100%
= (1 - 10.90/16.10) x 100
= (1 - 0.68) x 100
= 0.32 x 100
= 32%
If variation in diameter is between 0% to 2% - the
pearl is spherical
If variation in diameter is between 2% to 20% - the
pearl is near-spherical
If variation in diameter is greater than 20%
- the pearl is button shaped
Thus, the pearl having a variation in diameter of
32%, is undoubtedly a button pearl.
The size of the
pearl in terms of its weight
The weight of the pearl is 20 carats, which is
equivalent to 80 grains. In comparison to other much larger natural
pearls, this pearl can be considered as a medium-sized pearl.
The color and
overtones of the pearl
The color of the pearl is described as pinkish-white,
where white is the body color of the pearl and pink, the overtone color.
The white body color of the pearl, is caused by the absence of any
colored pigments that usually combine with the protein part of nacre, conchiolin. In the absence of any colored pigments in the conchiolin,
the white color of aragonite shows through, and the pearl appears white.
The pink color is an overtone color that appears to float over the
surface of the pearl. It is not caused by a pigment, but is an
optical effect produced by refraction of light as it passes through
successive layers of aragonite.
The luster and
orient of the pearl
The luster and orient of the pearl are caused
respectively by reflection and refraction of light. Luster is caused by
reflection of light from the surface and just below the surface of the
pearl. Orient or Iridescence is caused by refraction which disperses
white light into its individual colors as it passes through successive
layers of aragonite. Color, overtone, luster and orient are all
dependant on the thickness of nacre, which in natural pearls are
maximum, being made entirely of nacre. Thus, all these four properties
are optimum for natural pearls.
2) The pinkish-white
oval-shaped drop pearl
The size of the
pearl in terms of its dimensions
The drilled pearl drop that forms the pendent part of
the brooch, is more or less an oval-shaped pearl with dimensions of
16.20 mm and 13.77 mm, representing the greatest length and width of the
pearl.
The size of the
pearl in terms of its weight
The size of the pearl in terms of its weight is 18.92
carats, equivalent to 18.92 x 4 = 75.68 grains, slightly smaller in size
than the button-shaped pearl. Both pearls however are medium-sized
natural pearls in comparison with the well-known much larger natural
pearls.
The color and
overtones of the pearl
The color of the pearl is similar to the
button-shaped pearl and is pinkish-white. White is the body color of the
pearl and pink the overtone color.
The luster and
orient of the pearl
The luster and orient of the pearl are similar to the
button-shaped pearl, and in keeping with its provenance as a natural
saltwater pearl.
History of the pearl
and diamond pendent brooch
The jewelry period
corresponding with the time of origin of the piece
The detailed historic provenance of the pendent
brooch is not known, but the time of its origin has been suggested as
around 1890. This corresponds with the late Victorian or Aesthetic
period (1890-1901) in the United Kingdom and the Art Nouveau period
(1890-1915) in France. This period ushered in a sense of fun and
light-heartedness to jewelry, after the long period of mourning of the
mid-Victorian period (1860-1890). The period also coincided with the
Darwinian controversy and new botanical discoveries. Thus popular
jewelry motifs of the period were based on natural themes such as plants
and animals. Diamonds mined from the recently discovered Kimberley mines
in South Africa, reached the United Kingdom, and were used in jewelry
settings of the period. Gold and silver were still used as the metals in
jewelry.
Art Nouveau that originated in France was a style adopted for
all decorative arts including jewelry. Art Nouveau designs included the
human female form and other natural forms, both plant and animal
inspired. Plant motifs included undulating vines, leaves, and flowers
and animal motifs included insects such as butterflies, dragonflies and
bees, birds such as peacocks and swans, and reptiles such as snakes.
Apart from gold and silver, other materials such as copper, crystal and
carved glass, enamel, ivory, clarified horn, mother-of-pearl were also
used. Besides diamonds and pearls other cabochon gemstones such as
opal and moonstones were also used. Colored gemstones were used only if
necessary to enhance the beauty of a piece.
Art Nouveau features
in the pendent brooch
Some of the Art Nouveau features in the pendent
brooch include the following :-
1) The plant motif used in the brooch, that included
scroll work, incorporating leaves, and flowers.
2) The use of button-shaped and oval white pearls
with round surfaces, together with old-cut diamonds. Pearls and diamonds
were two common gemstones used during this period.
3) The mounting of one pearl en tremblant as the
centerpiece of the brooch. En tremblant jewelry was first introduced in
the 18th and 19th centuries.
4) The use of gold and silver as metals in the
brooch.
5) The use of old-cut diamonds of 19th century origin
on the brooch.
Report from the Gem
Testing Laboratory of Great Britain
The antique natural pearl and diamond pendent brooch
that was put up for auction at Christie's Dubai, was accompanied by
report No. 0125882 issued by the Gem Testing Laboratory of Great
Britain, authenticating the natural provenance of the two pearls used on
the brooch.
Sale of the antique
natural pearl and diamond pendent brooch
The antique natural pearl and diamond pendent brooch
came up at the Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, No.
7664, held at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, Dubai on April 29,
2008, under Lot No.154. A pre-sale estimate of $60,000 to $80,000 was
placed on the antique pendent brooch. The demand for jewelry
incorporating natural pearls was so great at this auction, that the
piece eventually sold for $97,000, $17,000 more than the upper pre-sale
estimate of $80,000. No doubt a significant part of the value of this
antique piece, would have been for its 19th-century provenance.
You are welcome to discuss this
post/related topics with Dr Shihaan and other experts from around the
world in our
FORUMS (forums.internetstones.com)
External Links :-
1)
An Attractive Antique Natural Pearl And Diamond Pendent Brooch -
Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, No. 7664. Lot No.
154. www.christies.com
References :-
1) An Attractive Antique
Natural Pearl And Diamond Pendent Brooch - Christie's Contemporary
Jewelry and Watches Sale, No. 7664. Lot No. 154. www.christies.com
2) History of the usage of
plant and animal motifs in jewelry designs - Tarantula Brooch.
www.internetstones.com
