Origin of name
The 33.80-carat drop-shaped pearl of Polynesian origin gets its name from
its onetime owner Mary Stretch Irick Drexel, the renowned philanthropist,
connoisseur and collector of jewels and jewelry, and a patroness of the
arts. Mary Stretch Irick Drexel (1868-1948) was the wife of George W. Childs
Drexel (1868-1944), who was the youngest son of Anthony Joseph Drexel
(1826-1893), the famous American financier, banker and partner of J.P.
Morgan, and the founder of Drexel University. The present Belle Epoque
pendant-brooch setting in which the Drexel Pearl is incorporated, was
actually designed and executed in 1905, by the American branch of the
French-based internationally renowned jewelers, Cartier's, after the firm
was commissioned by Mrs. Mary Stretch Irick Drexel for the task.
Characteristics of the Pearl
A perfectly symmetrical drop-shaped pearl
The Drexel Pearl is a perfectly symmetrical natural drop-shaped black pearl
of Polynesian origin, having a weight of 6.76 grams equivalent to 33.8
carats or 135.2 grains. The perfect symmetry of this drop-shaped pearl is
astonishing, being a natural pearl, and is indeed regarded as a marvel of
nature. The pearl is considered a black pearl, for which the Polynesian
region is world renowned, but the body color of the pearl is actually a
subtle gray color with a pinkish overtone, which provides a perfect background for the silvery
iridescence caused by the interference of light as it passes through pearl's
nacre. The combined properties of perfect symmetry, the subtle gray color
and the orient of its smooth surface, makes the Drexel pearl an extremely
rare and famous pearl, in spite of its relatively smaller size compared to
other famous pearls. In addition the historic provenance of the pearl also
enhances its standing as a famous pearl, and greatly increases its value.
The pearl has a length of 29 mm, a maximum width of 13.65 mm and a minimum
width of 12.20 mm.
Features of the complementary pearl
A complementary pearl in the Belle Epoque pendant-brooch, set as the
centerpiece of the brooch, has a comparable grayish color, but is almost
spherical in shape and has weight of 12 carats equivalent to 48 grains, and
dimensions of 12.85 x 12.90 x 10.30 mm.
Jewelry styles of the Belle Epoque period
The Drexel Pearl is still preserved in its 1905 setting, which is a Belle
Epoque pendant-brooch. Belle Epoque, meaning "beautiful time" in French,
refers to the Edwardian period, the time of reign of Edward VII of England
(1901-1910), a time when elegance and fashion became predominant values in
society. Edward VII ascended the throne of the United Kingdom, following the
death of his mother Queen Victoria in 1901. Queen Victoria ruled for 64
years from 1837 to 1901, and after the death of her husband Prince Albert in
1861, went into self-imposed mourning that lasted till the end of her reign.
The ascension of Edward VII in 1901, was a welcome change, that
ushered in an era of elegance, frivolity and fun, after Queen Victoria's
long period of mourning. During this period, the upper and middle classes
acquired new wealth, and the automobile, the airplane and the movie
industries were born. Even though Edward VII died in 1910, the Belle Epoque
period continued until the onset of World War I.
The jewelry styles of this period were light and delicate, as much as the
clothing and fashions of this period which made use of delicate fabrics,
lace and feathers. Platinum was introduced as the principal metal in jewelry
making, which enabled the manufacture of lightweight designs. Invisible
settings were created which made use of a minimum of metal to hold
gemstones. Diamond and pearls set in platinum were favored, because of the
white on white color scheme. The platinum enhanced the radiance of diamonds
and pearls. Diamonds of the period were rose, mine or European cut diamonds.
Long strings or chains of pearls were worn in combination with chokers. The
most popular gemstones of the period were sapphire, peridots, chrysoberyls
and amethysts. Peridot was the good luck stone of Edward VII, and jewelry
set with peridot became popular during this period, resulting in the
production of some remarkable peridot jewelry. Amethyst was the
favorite stone of Queen Alexandra, and was often included in jewelry of this
period. Green peridots, White pearls and Violet amethysts, were combined
together in women's jewelry; the Green, White and Violet colors representing
the colors of the suffragette movement; the first letters of the colors, G,
W, and V standing for "Give Women the Vote."
Jewelry of the period were graceful, decorated with openwork garland, lace,
tassel and bow motifs. Necklaces with lavaliere and negligee pendants were
widely used. The negligee pendant, consisted of two drops of unequal length
suspended from a centerpiece. Circle brooches and bar pins, with lacy
filigree designs were very fashionable. Stars and crescents were also
popular.
© Smithsonian Institution,
photo by Chip Clark
The Belle Epoque pendant-brooch incorporating
the Drexel Pearl
The Belle Epoque pendant brooch is a circle brooch characteristic of the
Edwardian period, with diamonds and pearls set in platinum. The Drexel Pearl
is suspended as a pendant from the lower end of the brooch, by a hook fixed
to the narrow end of the elongated drop-shaped pearl. The brooch itself is
made up of two concentric circles of platinum mounted with rose-cut
diamonds. The outer and inner circles of the brooch are mounted with 40
diamonds and 30 diamonds respectively. The interior of the inner
platinum circle, which is the centerpiece of the brooch, is occupied by an
almost spherical pearl, complementary to the drop-shaped Drexel Pearl,
and having the identical subtle grayish color. It is the combination
of these two grayish pearls with their silvery overtones that makes this
circular pendant-brooch an outstanding piece in its class, and a superb
example of a brooch of the Belle Epoque period.
History of the Drexel Pearl
The Natural Black Pearl - The "Pearl of
Queens" and the "Queen of Pearls"
Queen Elizabeth I, a lover of pearls
In the History of mankind no other gemstone or metal had captivated people
more than the natural pearl, a gem perfected by nature and requiring no art
to enhance their beauty, a true gift of nature to mankind. The beauty and
rarity of pearls enhanced their value, and later became symbols of status,
power and prestige. Little wonder that pearls became the favorite of royalty
and aristocracy since ancient times. In the history of Great Britain, one of
the best known lover of pearls was Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603), who had a
special preference for pearl-embroidered dresses, of which she is reported
to have owned over 3,000. Over her pearl-embroidered dress she usually
bedecked herself with seven long beaded pearl necklaces, and also wore
matching drop-shaped pearl ear-pendants, and 10 pairs of matching pearls
mounted on the surface of her elaborate hairdo. Please see photograph below.
Most of these pearls undoubtedly originated from the ancient and historic
pearling grounds of the Persian Gulf, Red Sea and the Gulf of Mannar.
Queen Elizabeth I of England and Ireland
Natural black pearls first discovered in
the Persian Gulf
Perhaps in her vast collection of pearl jewelry and pearl-embroidered
dresses, Queen Elizabeth I might also have owned some pieces made up of the
rarer black pearls, such as necklaces, also of Persian Gulf origin. The
Persian Gulf was one of the first pearling grounds in the world where the
black pearls were first discovered, originating from the bivalved mollusk
Pinctada margaritifera, the black-lipped oyster, native to the waters of the
Gulf. The black-lipped oyster has a wide geographic distribution, and
besides the Persian Gulf and Polynesia, are found in the waters of
Australia, Fiji, the South Sea, Baja California and the Gulf of Mexico.
Empresses who owned jewelry set with
natural black pearls
Empress Catherine the Great of Russia (1729-1796), a great connoisseur and
collector of jewels and jewelry, was reported to have owned a valuable black
pearl necklace made up of 30 black pearls, the largest of which weighed 19.5
carats or 78.0 grains. It was also reported that the Austrian Crown of the
Habsburg dynasty in the 18th century, was set with 30 black pearls. The
French Empress Eugenie de Montijo (1826-1920), the Empress consort of
Emperor Napoleon III (1808-1873), who was
said to have reset most of the French crown jewelry in new settings to suit
her taste, and also enriched the French crown jewels by adding several
exquisitely designed new pieces, also added a valuable black pearl necklace
to her collection, the pearls believed to have originated in French
Polynesia. Hence the natural black pearl came to be known as the
"Pearl of Queens" and the "Queen of Pearls."
The source of the Drexel Pearl
French Polynesia source of black Tahitian
pearls
The Drexel Pearl is believed to have originated in the islands of the French
Polynesia, whose waters constitute one of the natural habitats of the bivalve mollusk, Pinctada margaritifera
cumingi, commonly known as the "black-lipped" oyster, which produces the
rare black pearl, that was greatly valued by pearl enthusiasts, and connoisseurs
since ancient times. It is around this species of bivalved mollusk that the
present day cultured pearl industry of French Polynesia that produces the
famous black Tahitian pearls is based.
Location, administration and the
island groups of French Polynesia
French Polynesia consisting of 118 volcanic and coral islands and atolls,
occupying an area as big as Western Europe, in the South Pacific, somewhere
midway between Australia and South America, is a French Overseas
Collectivity, administered as an overseas country inside the French
Republic, with representation in the French National Assembly and Senate,
and the people as French citizens given the right to vote in the French
presidential elections. The total land area of all the islands is 4,167 sq.
km. scattered over 2.5 million sq. km. of ocean. The islands can be divided
into five island groups. These island groups are :- 1) The Society islands
2) The Tuamotu archipelago 3) The Gambier islands 4)
The Marquesas islands 5) The Tubuai islands. The largest and most
densely populated island is Tahiti, which is part of the Society islands
group. The capital city Papeete is situated on the main island Tahiti.
French Polynesia
Change of status of Polynesia from a
"French protectorate" in 1842 to a "French Overseas Collectivity" in 2004
The various Polynesian islands were discovered within a period of about 250
years, starting from early 16th century (1521) to the late 18th century
(1767), by European explorers from Portugal, Spain, Netherlands, Britain and
France. Missionary activities to convert the indigenous population to
Christianity began in 1774 by the Spanish Catholic missionaries, followed by
the British Protestant missionaries in 1797 and finally by the French
Catholic missionaries in 1834. The expulsion of the French Catholic
missionaries in 1836 led France to intervene in 1838 by sending a gunboat.
In 1842, France declared Tahiti and Tahuata islands as French Protectorates,
to enable the Catholic missionaries to continue their work without any
hindrance. The French founded the capital of Papeete in 1843. In 1880,
France annexed Tahiti, changing its status from a protectorate to a colony.
By 1885, France had annexed the five Island groups and after the appointment
of a governor to administer the newly found colony, named it "Settlements in
Oceania." In 1903 the name was changed to "French settlements in Oceania."
In 1946 after World War II, Polynesians were granted French citizenship, and
the island's status changed to "French overseas territory," and the name
changed to "French Polynesia" in 1957. In the year 2004, the status of
French Polynesia was again changed to "French Overseas Collectivity." French
Polynesia today has been granted autonomy in all areas of government, except
defense and foreign affairs, immigration, monetary policy, police, justice,
and tertiary education.
History of the Tahiti black pearl industry
Polynesia, an alternative source for
pearls after the depletion of the pearl resources of the New World
Ancient Polynesians like the ancient Indian tribes of the New World, and
other ancient civilizations of the world, were well aware of the existence
of pearl oysters, which they used not only as a source of food, but also for
the production of ornaments. They appreciated not only the natural beauty of
pearl oyster shells but also the rare and occasional pearls found inside the
shells. Besides being used for decorative purposes, such as ornaments, the
pearl shells also had other uses such as the making of household utensils
and fish hooks. However the organized collection of pearl shells in
Polynesia, one of the most beautiful in the world, began only in the early
19th century, after the arrival of European navigators and traders. The
Polynesian islands provided an alternative source for pearls and pearl
shells, apart from the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea and the Gulf of Mannar;
pearls obtained from the New World regions such as the Caribbean, Gulf of
Panama, and Venezuela being totally exhausted due to over exploitation.
Tuamotu
archipelago, the island chain where pearl oysters were first exploited, and
the main source of the "Tahitian Pearls"
Out of the five island groups of Polynesia, it was in the Tuamotu
Archipelago, the natural breeding ground of the black-lipped oyster, that
pearling had first developed as an industry since ancient times. The
islanders of the archipelago knew the decorative and commercial value of
pearls, and were the first to exploit the abundant pearl oyster resources
available in the islands of the archipelago. The island chain of the
archipelago, consisting of 78 circular reef lagoons or atolls is situated
about 300 km east and northeast of Tahiti. The atoll lagoons are surrounded
by chains of low islands called motu, which rise above sea-level, and are
linked by sandbars. Some of the important atolls are Fakarava, Rangiroa,
Manihi, Tikehau and Hikueru.
Pearls used by Tuamotu islanders in their
barter trade with Tahitians
Natives of the Tuamotu archipelago used pearls in their barter trade with
the people of Tahiti who visited the archipelago regularly, and obtained
goods which were in short supply or not available on the coral atolls, such
as adzes and axes made of basalt. In Tahiti this barter trade with the
Tuamotu islanders was controlled by the royal family, as for instance during
the reign of Tahiti's regent, "Pomare Vahine" who was regent to the young
king Pomare III, who sent out big twin-hulled Polynesian sailing canoes from
Tahiti to the Tuamotu atolls. In ancient times in Tahiti, pearls, shells,
turtles and other objects of special interest and value were also given as
gifts to members of the royalty and tribal chiefs, as a form of payment to
compensate for the compulsory collective service to the community, expected
from each family. The pearls so collected by the royal family was sold to
the foreign explorers and traders who visited Tahiti; a pound of pearls
fetching a prize of about 100 gold louis. These pearls eventually reached
the capital cities of western nations, where they were traded as Tahitian
pearls, even though they actually originated in the Tuamotu archipelago.
This type of barter exchange continued even after the arrival of the
Europeans but the basalt axes were replaced iron goods such as axes,
knives, nails and hammers.
Why Tuamotu islanders did not use pearls
as ornaments ?
The European explorers who discovered the different island groups of
Polynesia, found that pearls were used as an ornament by most of the
Polynesians living in the different groups of islands, except in the Tuamotu
archipelago, one of the most favorable places in Polynesia where pearls
could be found. This apparent contradiction was later found to be not a
matter of choice but rather one of technological advancement. The islanders
simply did not have the technical know-how to pierce a pearl, in order to
convert it to a bead for a necklace, or make it a part of a pendant or
earring. Bora bora an island of the Society Islands group, were the first to
develop the secret of piercing a pearl. This explains why pearls became part
of the finery of the Society islanders but not the Tuamotuan islanders, who
instead used their pearls as a medium of exchange for goods from the Society
Islands. However, with the arrival of the European navigators, the Tuamotuan
islanders learnt to use iron nails for piercing pearls, although initial
attempts to perfect the method resulted in the chipping of large
numbers of pearls. European discoverers such as Capt. Samuel Wallis (1767)
and Lt. James Cook (1769) who had purchased pearls from Tahitians, had
reported seeing several high quality pearls of good color and orient, but
unfortunately chipped by piercing attempts.
The visits of Bougainville and Rodriguez to
Tahiti
When the French navigator Bougainville arrived in Tahiti in 1768, the
Tahitians scaled down the trade in Pearls, perhaps being suspicious of his
intentions. Bougainville wrote "I know of only one rich article of trade
here; they are the beautiful pearls. The wives and children of the Tahitian
chiefs decorated their ears with pearls, but they hid them during our stay."
In 1775 when Maximo Rodriguez arrived in Tahiti, he was greeted by
members of the royal family, one of whom wore two pearls, each as big as a
chick pea, but both crudely pierced. According to Rodriguez pearls found
during this period varied in size and quality. The size varied between a
chickpea and almond, and the surface of the pearl could be notched, uneven
and deformed or without flaws. The orient of the pearls also varied from a
minimum to a maximum. Rodriguez further goes on to write that pearls were
owned mainly by the Tahitian Chiefs and members of their families.
Pearls used mainly as ear ornaments by
Tahitians
The pearls were mainly used as earrings and decorations for clothing. Each
earring known as "Poe" in Tahiti, was made up of three pearls, worn at
the end of a cord 5-8 cm long and made of braided hair known as "tipua."
Pearls were worn by both Tahitian men and women, who had both their ears
pierced, but usually wore only one earring at a time. Some of the pearl
earrings found their way to Europe after they were purchased from their
royal owners. The Duchess of Portland had two ear ornaments in her
collection made up of six pearls originating from Tahiti. The Gottingen
Museum also had a pair of pearl ear ornaments, and the Cambridge Museum had
a pearl pendant dating back to Cook's first or second voyage to Tahiti. The
Tahitians considered the pearl ornaments as valuable possessions, and would
not part with them easily even when attractive offers were made for such
ornaments. This was the experience of Joseph Banks, who accompanied Cook on
his voyages, when he wanted to purchase an ear pendant of three pearls from
a Tahitian girl. She refused to sell them in spite of the fact that he
offered anything she wanted.
Exploitation of pearl oyster resources in
the Tuamotu archipelago mainly for pearl shells from 1820 to 1880
The first accounts of the exploitation of pearl oysters for their shells,
used in the manufacture of buttons and as inlay,
dates back to 1802. According to these accounts the lagoon reefs where the
pearl oysters were collected were extraordinarily rich, that collectors
needed only to wade into the water up to their waist, in order to collect
several hundred kilos a day. However, it was only around 1820, that pearl
shell collection actually became a big time business. Tuamotu archipelago,
the first island group where pearl oysters were exploited by the islanders
for their pearls even before the arrival of the European explorers, once
again became the center of large scale exploitation for pearl shells, and
became an international meeting point for pearl shell traders from England,
America and Belgium. Diving for pearls oysters were mainly carried out by
the islanders, and some foreigners from neighboring islands, such as the
Cook Islands and the Pitcairn Islands. The local divers were paid for their
work in European goods, such as muskets, gun powder, knives, clothing
material and alcohol.
Most of the pearl resources in the
Touamotu archipelago were exhausted by 60 years of continuous exploitation,
before France claimed sovereignty over the archipelago
"Pomare Vahine" Tahiti's woman regent for Pomare III, who was underage,
imposed a tax on the collection of pearl shells in 1825, by decree, that
also stipulated that royal permission had to be sought before collection
started. Ships that violated the royal decree were seized. Statistics reveal
that on an average, around 900 to 1,000 tons of pearl oysters were collected
annually from the year 1820 to 1880, and the price paid in London for a ton
of pearl oysters was around 13 gold louis. The peak production of pearl
shells was between the years 1845 and 1879, after France declared Tahiti and
Tahuata islands as French protectorates in 1842. After the year 1880,
production declined sharply, as the lagoons were virtually empty, with the
exception of the most remote ones. Even though the pearl oysters were mainly
harvested for their shells, the occasional pearls discovered from the
oysters, with a frequency of one in every 10,000 to 15,000 oysters, entered
the pearl markets of Europe. The Tuamotu archipelago which formerly belonged
to the Pomare dynasty and was administered by them from Tahiti, was claimed
by France only in the 1880s. By this time most of the pearl resources of the
archipelago was already exhausted.
Was the reef-lagoons of the Tuamotu
archipelago the actual source of the Drexel Pearl ?
The "Drexel Pearl" was incorporated into its Belle Époque
pendant-brooch setting in the year 1905. Thus the Tahitian black pearl would
have been discovered from the black-lipped oyster in one of the Islands of Tahiti
a few years before this, probably between 1900 an 1905. Around this time all
the five groups of islands in French Polynesia were under the sovereignty of
France, and were officially known as "The French Settlements in Oceania."
It is difficult to say in which Island group the Drexel Pearl exactly
originated, but given the fact that intensive harvesting of pearl oysters
was abandoned in the 1880s in the Tuamotu archipelago, the natural home of
the black-lipped oyster, there would have been sufficient time for the
regeneration of black-lipped oyster populations in the main atolls of the
archipelago, including Hikueru, a natural breeding ground for black-lipped
oysters and the center of the Tahitian pearl industry for over a century.
Thus it was quite possible that the "Drexel Pearl" still originated in one
of the reef-lagoons or atoll lagoons of the Tuamotu archipelago.
Pinctada
margaritifera - The Black-lip Oyster
Classification
Kingdom : Animalia
Phylum : Mollusca
Class : Bivalvia
Order : Pterioida
Family : Pteriidae
Genus : Pinctada
Species : margaritifera
Variety : cumingi
Common name : Black-lip pearl oyster
Pacific pearl-oyster
Pinctada margaritifera (black-lip-oyster)
Structural features and distribution
The black-lip pearl oyster is a bivalve mollusk, having two shells or valves
that house and protect their soft body parts. The shells are black in color
with lighter striations. The nacre on the inner surface of the shell is
silvery, which becomes black towards the rim. Hence the name black-lip
oyster. They are usually found in reef habitats, attached to hard
substrates, sometimes as deep as 40 meters.
The black-lip pearl oyster has a wide geographical distribution, in the
tropical Indo-Pacific waters from the Persian Gulf to the Gulf of California
in Mexico, and from Japan to the southern Pacific Islands of French
Polynesia. The species reaches its greatest abundance in the atoll lagoons
of Eastern Polynesia, from the Tuamotu-Gambier archipelago of French
Polynesia to the northern group of the Cook Islands. The species is also
found across the northern coast of Australia, from Champion Bay in Western
Australia to Moreton Bay in Queensland. There are seven identifiable
varieties of the species Pinctada margaritifera, each having its own
discrete range.
Pinctada margaritifera cumingi, the source of
the black Tahitian natural and cultured pearls
The variety of Pinctada margaritifera found in the atoll lagoons of Eastern
Polynesia, is cumingi, after Hugh Cuming the naturalist who first described
it. Pinctada margaritifera cumingi is the largest of the seven varieties of
Pinctada margaritifera, that can grow up to a maximum size of 30 cm (12 ins)
in diameter and weigh up to 5 kg (maximum recorded weight 9 kg), and may
have a life span of up to 30 years. The oysters maximum pearl-productive
period is when the oysters age is about 3 to 7 years and has a diameter of
15.2 to 20.3 cm (6 to 8 ins). Pinctada margaritifera cumingi is the source
of the renowned black Tahitian natural as well as cultured pearls.
The life cycle of the pearl oysters
The pearl oysters start life as males and change into females after 2-3
years. The mature female oyster (more than 2-3 years old) releases millions
of eggs into the surrounding water, which are fertilized externally by
sperms released by the younger males (less than 2-3 years old). In any given
pearl population, the ratio of males to females are roughly equal. Every
year the gonads of the oysters, which are the reproductive organs producing
eggs and sperms, become functional only for a short period of five months
extending from October to February. Thus fertilization is restricted to only
this period of the year.
The fertilized eggs undergo a series of cell divisions and develop into free
swimming larvae which are released into the aquatic environment when the
eggs hatch. The larvae pass through various developmental stages as they
remain free swimming in the water, and after 24 days become a D-shaped larva
known as a spat. The spats settle at the bottom of the reef where they
crawl, while metamorphosing into a juvenile pearl oyster, that attaches
itself to the substrate, and begins to develop a shell. Black-lip oysters
are filter feeders, that feed by filtering water across their gills,
trapping plankton and other digestible materials. The oysters become
reproductively mature in 2-3 years, and pearl productive from 3-7 years,
when the diameter id 6-8 ins. (15-20 cm).
Tahitian Pearls
Basic body colors and overtones in Tahitian
pearls
The black body color of the pearls is caused by black melanin pigments
secreted by glandular cells, during the nacre building phase. The melanin
pigments bond with the conchiolin, the protein part of the nacre, while the
aragonite platelets remain colorless and transparent, through which the
black color shows through. Besides the black body color, Tahitian pearls can
also have other body colors, caused by other pigments. The predominant basic
colors of the Tahitian pearls are black, gray, blue, green and brown.
Another characteristic feature of Tahitian pearls, is that besides the basic
color, the pearls also have beautiful overtones, caused by the interference
of light. Some of the common overtones seen are blue, pink, gold, silver,
reddish-purple (eggplant color) and peacock green. The overtones are found
in a variety of combinations, and their presence enhances the value of a
pearl. The finest black pearls having a green overtone, known as the
Peacock-green is the most sought after color in Tahitian pearls and the most
valuable. The next most valuable combination is greenish-gray known as
Pistachio. A gray or black pearl without any overtones is almost 50% less
valuable than one with overtones. The "Drexel Pearl" the subject of this
webpage is said to have a silver-gray color, with a pinkish overtone.
Special names given to combinations of body
colors and overtones
In the pearl trade special names are given to Tahitian pearls that have a
combination of different body colors and overtones. Peacock and Pistachio
are the most popular, much sought-after, and the most valuable of Tahitian
pearls. Some of the special terms used are given in the table below :-
Combination of body color and overtones in
Tahitian pearls
|
S/N |
Basic body color |
Overtone |
Combination |
Special name |
|
1 |
gray |
yellow |
yellowish-gray |
Champagne |
|
2 |
black |
purple |
purplish-black |
Cherry |
|
3 |
black |
blue |
bluish-black |
Lavender |
|
4 |
pale gray |
- |
pale gray |
Moon Gray |
|
5 |
black |
green |
greenish-black |
Peacock |
|
6 |
gray |
purple |
purple-gray |
Pigeon Gray |
|
7 |
gray |
green |
greenish-gray |
Pistachio |
|
8 |
gray |
- |
gray |
Silver |
|
9 |
black |
gold |
golden-black |
Tahitian Gold |
Some of the distinguishing features of
the species Pinctada margaritifera
1) The outer surface of the shell is black colored, with a non-nacreous
border.
2) The external shell often shows lighter striations radiating from the umbo.
3) The silver nacre inside the shell becomes dark or smoky towards the
distal rim, from which the name black-lip has been derived.
4) Absence of hinge teeth.
5) The anterior border of the shell extends far in advance of the anterior
ear lobe
6) The shell valves are moderately convex.
Mary Stretch Irick Drexel
Mary Stretch Irick who was born in 1868 in Vincentown, New Jersey, was the
daughter of General William Hudson Irick and his wife, Sally Stretch. They
live on a 240-acre plot named "Locust Grove" on Retreat Road. Mary who was
well known for her horse riding abilities, married George W. Childs Drexel,
the youngest son of Anthony Joseph Drexel, on November 18, 1891, at the age
of 23. The marriage that took place at the Trinity Episcopal Church on Mill
Street, Vincentown, was solemnized by the Right Rev. Bishop Scarborough of
the Episcopal Diocese of New Jersey. It is said that in preparation for
Mary's wedding, a special wing was added to Irick home on Retreat Road, to
accommodate the officiating Bishop, and another extension was built for the
Trinity Episcopal Church, at Mill Street, to accommodate all the guests.
Mary wore a double star of diamonds at the wedding, a gift by Mrs. Ellen
Anthony Drexel, the groom' mother, who was seriously sick at the time of the
wedding. The wedding gift from the groom's father, Anthony J. Drexel to the
newly wedded couple, was a three-storied magnificent mansion, to be built at
the northeast corner of 39th Street and Locust Street, at
Philadelphia. Today, this former Drexel Home is the Alpha Tau Omega
Fraternity House, on the campus of the University of Pennsylvania.
Anthony J. Drexel (1826-1893) was a financier, banker, partner of J.P.
Morgan and founder of the Drexel University. Anthony J. Drexel also went
into partnership with George William Childs (1829-1894) and purchased
the Philadelphia Public Ledger, a little known newspaper, which late became
one of the most influential journals in the country. Anthony J. Drexel's
friendship and partnership with George William Childs, was a lifelong
partnership that lasted 40 years. Their friendship was so close that Anthony
J. Drexel named his youngest son who was born in 1868, as George William
Childs Drexel. Together they engaged in philanthropic activities that
benefited a lot of hospitals, educational and charitable institutions. After
Anthony Drexel's death in 1893, Childs served as the second president of the
Board of Trustees of Drexel University, succeeding the founder.
George Williams Childs Drexel and Mary Stretch Irick Drexel were notable
patrons of the arts, and extended their patronage, to the Metropolitan Opera
Company and the Philadelphia Orchestra. Her contribution as Director of the
Philadelphia Red Cross was well recognized. George William Childs, the
publisher, gifted a home named "Wootton" in Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, to his
namesake George William Childs Drexel and his wife Mary Stretch Irick
Drexel, before his death in 1894. This home presently houses the St.
Aloysius' Boys' School. George and Mary's philanthropy also benefited Mary's
hometown, Vincentown, New Jersey. In 1923, she built a library at
Vincentown, which she named after her mother Sally Stretch Keen. George and
Mary Drexel also donated a large number of books over the years to the
library. Mary Drexel died at the age of 80, and her portrait along with that
of her mother Sally Stretch Keen, hang in the Vincentown Library.
Drexel Pearl exhibited at the "Allure of
Pearls" exhibition in the year 2005
The "Drexel Pearl" presently owned by Andrew Cohen S. A. was loaned to the
Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History, for the "Allure of Pearls"
exhibition that was held on the second floor of the Geology, Gems and
Minerals Hall, from March 18 to September 5, 2005. This exhibition that was
co-sponsored by GIA, Paspaley Pearls Pty. Ltd. and Iridesse Pearls, brought
together 12 of the rarest pearls in the world, some with an ancient
historical provenance.
Related :-
1)
Pearl of Asia
2)
Hope Pearl
3)
Imperial Hong
Kong Pearl
4)
Pearl of Kuwait
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References
1.The Biology and Culture of Pearl Oysters (Bivalvia
Pteriidae) - M.H. Gervis, Neil Anthony.
2.Tahitian
Pearls - www.health.learninginfo.org
3.How we grade Tahitian
black pearls - www.pearloasis.com
4.Antique
Jewelry - Edwardian, 1901-1915 - www.antiquejewelryonline.com
5.Edwardian/Belle Epoque Period Jewelry - 1895-1915 - www.kentshire.com
6.Edwardian
Style Closes the Door on Victorian Jewelry -
www.antique-jewelry-investor.com
7.French Polynesia - Pearl Farming -
www.pacificislandtravel.com
8.Aquafarmer Information
Sheet - Producing Pearls Using Black-lip Pearl Oyster - by Simon Ellis &
Maria Haws Ph.D.
9.The History of the Tahiti Black Pearl -
www.perlesdetahiti.net
10.History of Pearls - IMPERIAL - www.pearls.com
11.Tahitian Pearl Farms - Tahitian Black Pearls - www.allaboutgemstones.com
12.French
Polynesia - From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
13.GIA Events & Trade Shows - The Allure of Pearls,
Smithsonian NMNH, Washington D.C.
14)French Polynesia - CIA, The World Fact Book
15)Mary Irick Drexel - Vincentown, New Jersey -
www.geocities.com
