Origin of Name
This exquisitely crafted pearl and diamond tiara of
mid-19th century France, was commissioned by Napoleon III (1852-70) as
part of a suite of jewelry he ordered the court jewelers in Paris to
create, using diamonds, pearls and other precious stones, from the
state treasury, in anticipation of his marriage to Eugenie de Montijo,
the daughter of a Spanish nobleman, which took place in January 1853.
Thus the celebrated tiara, a masterpiece of Gabriel Lemonnier, the crown
jeweler, was actually a gift by Emperor Napoleon III to his wife and
Empress consort Eugenie de Montijo on the occasion of their wedding.
The tiara was described by Arthur Bloche as a "Bijoux du plus pur style
Louis XVI" meaning "a jewel in the purest Louis XVI style." Empress Eugenie used the tiara for formal occasions, until she had
access to the treasury, when she was able to recast the old jewelry in
the treasury in new settings, and also commission a new Greek diadem
incorporating the famous Regent Diamond, that was once mounted on the
hilt of Napoleon Bonaparte's sword.
Characteristics of
the Tiara
In France during the period of the second empire of
Napoleon III, some of the
most opulent jewelry were created, when a demand for costly gems set the
styles for the lavish use of diamonds and pearls. Greater emphasis was
laid on extravagant display prompted by the intrinsic appeal of
precious stones, and the workmanship of metal settings was of secondary
importance.
The Empress Eugenie Tiara, even though executed by
Lemonnier in the mid-19th century during the French second empire, is
based on a neo-classical design belonging to the Louis XVI style,
in which the filigree silver-gilt mount is over crusted with small
brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling 1998 diamonds in all, with a total
weight of 63.30 carats. The tiny brilliant cut diamonds, that surround
the much larger pearls, highlights the effects of the pearls in the
tiara, giving it absolute priority. The piece is one of the rare designs
of Gabriel Lemmonier, in which small brilliant cut diamonds were used to
enhance the effect of the larger pearls, set in a symmetrical scroll
work pattern about a median line. The median line is occupied by four
pearls in a vertical row, the smallest pearl being at the bottom, and
the largest drop-shaped pearl in the entire tiara, occupying the top
most position, believed to be the "Perle Napoleon" also known as the "La
Regente Pearl." Of the remaining two pearls, the larger spherical pearl is situated
just above the smallest pearl, and the smaller drop shaped pearl above
it, and below the largest drop-shaped pearl. Pearls of similar size are
placed in symmetrical patterns on either side of the median line. The
lower end of the tiara is occupied by a row of small spherical pearls.
Large drop-shaped pearls arise from the upper surface of the tiara as
spikes, from the axil of two opposite diamond-set leaves. There are a
total of 212 pearls weighing 2,520 grains on this tiara. Thus the
important features of this tiara are :-
1) The use of smaller brilliant-cut diamonds, to
accentuate the effect of the larger pearls, which is indeed dramatic.
2) The symmetrical nature of the design employed.
Features of
neo-classical jewelry
The neo-classical period in jewelry crafting in
France extends from around 1760 to around 1830, that included the
tumultuous periods of the French revolution and Napoleon Bonaparte.
Fashions in clothing and jewelry that was centered around the courts and
residences of the royal families and the aristocrats, became more broad
based and people oriented. Clothing became lighter and less
tight-fitted, and the colors used were white or light toned. Necklines
became deeper exposing the neck and the upper chest and waistlines moved
up to just below the bosom. The hair was tied at the back of the head
exposing the ears. The exposed ears, neck and the chest called for a new
style of jewelry that matched the new dressing style, but jewelry was
worn in modesty. Jewelry became lighter in weight, and long earrings
were developed for the free ears, and large necklaces worn as chokers
suited the deep neckline. Necklaces were also worn loosely around the
shoulders as long chains.
Jewelry motifs used were adopted from the
architecture of ancient Rome, Greece and Egypt, and were also inspired
by the excavations at Pompeii and Herculaneum. During this period styles
adopted moved from Louis XVI style to the Empire style of Napoleon
Bonaparte. Motifs had a high level of symmetry. and included rosettes,
festoons, half-fluted pillars, vases, urns, ribbon bows, hearts,
snakes, palmettes, sphinxes, meanders, scrolls, wine and acanthus leaves, and
crescent moon and stars. The shapes used were geometric, such as ovals, navettes, rectangles, polygons, rhomboids and shields. Materials used in
jewelry also became cheaper. Lower percentage gold alloys were created
such as 14-ct and 8-ct instead of the usual 18-ct gold. Alternative
materials such as pinchbeck and tombak were also used. Apart from
diamonds and pearls, cheaper gemstones such as aquamarine, amethyst,
chalcedony, turquoise, coral, amber, lapis lazuli and garnets were also
used. After 1796 cameos carved in agate became very popular. Later
alternative materials were also used for cameos such as shells, glass,
porcelain and gypsum.
History of
the Tiara
The origin of the
pearls used in Empress Eugenie's Pearl and Diamond Tiara
Napoleon Bonaparte
lavishes a magnificent pearl tiara on his second wife Empress Marie
Louise
The origin of the pearls used in Empress Eugenie's
Pearl and Diamond Tiara, is believed to be pearls that were originally
part of a magnificent pearl parure that was presented to Empress Marie
Louise, Napoleon Bonaparte's second wife, whom he married on April 2,
1910, after divorcing his first wife Empress Josephine, who was not able
to give him a son and successor. At the time of the wedding Napoleon
presented an expensive emerald and diamond parure to Marie Louise that
was designed by his court jeweler Francois Regnault Nitot. Subsequently
he lavished more expensive parures on his Empress consort, and it is
said that by the end of year 1913, he had purchased jewelry that totaled
6.6 million gold francs from Francois Regnault Nitot. One of the parures
given to Empress Marie Louise was the magnificent pearl parure, whose
chief component was an extraordinary pearl tiara, set with 297 pearls,
weighing 4,097 grains, valued at 219,547 gold francs. The centerpiece of
this pearl tiara was the 346.27-grain drop-shaped silvery-white "Perle
Napoleon" the largest natural regular-shaped pearl in the world. Apart
from the tiara, other components of this pearl parure included, a
magnificent comb, a pair of bracelets, matching earrings, a three-row
pearl necklace, an enormous sautoir, a single row long necklace made of
408 spherical pearls of almost equal size, weighing 6,461 grains.
Marie Louise, Empress Consort of Napoleon Bonaparte
Marie Louise's
pearl parure is dismantled and reassembled as a new parure for the
Duchess d'Angouleme Marie Therese
After the fall of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1814, Louis
XVIII was installed by the allies as the ruler of a restored Bourbon
monarchy. Louis XVIII was a widower, yet he got some of the crown jewels
of Napoleon Bonaparte re-set by his crown jeweler Evrard Bapst, for his
neice Marie Therese, daughter of the late King Louis XVI and his wife
Marie Antoinette, who were executed during the French revolution. Marie
Therese married her cousin Louis Antoine, the duc d'Angouleme, the son
of Charles X, who was a brother of Louis XVI and Louis XVIII. One of the
significant pieces that was re-modeled was Marie Louise's magnificent
pearl parure, which was completely broken up in 1818, and reworked for
the Duchess d'Angouleme, Marie Therese. The "Perle Napoleon" was again
reset as the centerpiece of a new tiara.
Marie Therese, Duchess d'Angouleme
Pearls used by
Marie Louise and Marie Therese remain untouched during Louis Philippe's
rule
Louis XVIII who died in 1824, was succeeded by his
brother Charles X, who ruled France until his abdication in August 1830,
in the aftermath of the July 1830 revolution, in which Louis Philippe
was elected by an antagonistic legislature as a constitutional monarch,
titled the "king of the French." Louis Philippe who ruled until 1848,
abdicated after the overthrow of the constitutional monarchy, following
the revolution of 1848, and the proclamation of the second republic.
During the reign of Louis Philippe, the crown jewels of France,
including the magnificent pearls used by Marie Louise and Marie Therese
remained untouched, as Queen Marie Amelie, the wife of Louis Philippe,
used her own personal jewelry.
A new pearl parure
is created for Empress Eugenie using the pearls used by Marie Louise and
Marie Therese
In 1848, Napoleon Bonaparte's nephew, Louis Napoleon
returned to France from exile in Britain, and was elected the president
of the second republic, by a landslide victory polling 5.5 million
votes. He ruled France as the President, for a four-year term until
1852. Towards the end of his period of rule he drew up a new
constitution, that was approved by a plebiscite, and he held another
plebiscite that confirmed him as Emperor of the second empire of France,
assuming the title Napoleon III.
Empress Eugenie wearing the Pearl and Diamond Tiara
and the six-stranded pearl necklace.
Napoleon III married countess Eugenie de Montijo in
1953, and it was in anticipation of this marriage that he ordered the
court jewelers Gabriel Lemonnier and Francois Kramer to create an
entirely new parure using the pearls previously used by Marie Louise and
Marie Therese. The Empress Eugenie Pearl and Diamond Tiara, the subject
of this webpage, was an important component of this pearl parure. Other
components include a six-stranded pearl necklace, pearl bracelets and a
diamond stomacher incorporating the "Perle Napoleon." When Empress Eugenie had access to the crown jewels of
France, she set about transforming most of the old pieces, into new
settings, to suit her own taste and the fashion trends of the period,
using the services of Gabriel Lemonnier. Apart from re-setting old
pieces, she also added several new pieces to the crown jewels of France,
and commissioned a Greek diadem incorporating the famous Regent diamond,
once mounted on the hilt of Napoleon's sword. The famous portrait
painter of the 19th century, Winterhalter, painted Empress Eugenie
wearing the Pearl and Diamond Tiara. In 1855, when Empress Eugenie
accompanied Napoleon III on a state visit to Britain, she wore the Pearl
and Diamond Tiara, on two consecutive nights for dinner at Windsor
Castle, held on April 17 and 18, 1855.
The downfall of
Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie's escape to England
Napoleon III gave France two decades of prosperity
under a stable authoritarian government. During the brilliant court life
of this period, Empress Eugenie effectively projected her image as a
befitting queen to a mighty Emperor, by making use of the re-set crown
jewels, and other new pieces to the maximum. Napoleon III's downfall
came with his defeat by the Germans, in the disastrous Fraco-Prussian
war of 1870-71. He surrendered to the Germans. France deposed him and
proclaimed the third republic. Empress Eugenie and her son escaped to
Britain, with the help of her American dentist, Dr. Thomas W. Evans, to
whom she presented most of her personal collection of pearls. She
carried with her all her personal jewelry, which was placed in a safety
vault in a bank in England. This did not include the pearl parure made
for her by Napoleon III, at the time of her marriage, as it was turned
out of the crown jewels. Empress Eugenie was given asylum by Queen
Victoria in England, who accommodated her in the Osborne Cottage in Osborne
House, the favorite retreat of the royal family, situated on the Isle of
Wight. Napoleon III joined her after he was released by the Germans. During
the period of the Franco-Prussian war, the crown jewels were carried to
the town of Brest in northwestern France for safe keeping. After the war
in 1872, the jewels were returned to the custody of the Ministry of
Finance in Paris, where they were kept in safe vaults.
Exposition of the
French crown jewels in 1878 and 1884
During the period of the third republic, the crown
jewels of France were put on public display for the first time in 1878,
at the International Paris Exhibition - "Exposition Universelle," and again six years later in
1884, at the Louvre Museum in Paris, in aid of the School of Industrial
Arts. Both these expositions were well attended by the public, who were
astounded by the extravagance of the collection, ascribed to the
monarchs of the House of Bourbon, and the emperors of the House of
Napoleon.
The dispersal of the
French crown jewels by public auction in 1887
After the bitter experiences of the past that saw the
failure of two republics, and the revival of the monarchy by autocrats
like the Napoleons, and by international intervention after the defeat
of Napoleon I, that led to the restoration of the House of Bourbon,
there was much debate in the national assembly of the third
republic, as to the prudence of holding on to the decadent royal symbols
like the French crown jewels, which could be used by a potential
dictator or monarch to restore the old order. Thus the national assembly
unanimously decided to disperse the entire French crown jewels by public
auction, save for any pieces of cultural and historic significance.
Accordingly the first president of the third republic, Francois Paul
Jules Grevy, ordered the sale of the crown jewels by pubic auction,
between May 12 and 23, 1887, to be conducted by the Administration of
State Properties.
The Empress Eugenie
Pearl and Diamond Tiara was sold for 78,100 French Francs
A catalogue was published for the auction, by the
Administration of State Properties, containing real size photographs of
the pieces to be auctioned, and circulated around the jewelry capitals
of the world, such as London, New York, Paris, St. Petersburg, Munich
etc. The Empress Eugenie Pearl and Diamond Tiara was among the items
listed in the catalogue, with a pre-auction estimate of 100,000 French
Francs. The auction that drew international attention, was attended by
renowned jewelry houses like Tiffany's, Van Cleef & Arpels, Frederic
Boucheron, Paul Bapst etc. Out of the 69 lots put up for sale 24 were
purchased by Tiffany's, the most successful bidder at the auction. The
Empress Eugenie Pearl and Diamond Tiara, that had pre-sale estimate of
100,000 French Francs was sold to Messrs Julius Jacob for 78,100 French
Francs.
The Empress Eugenie
Pearl and Diamond Tiara is acquired by Prince Albert I, the 8th Prince
of Thurn und Taxis
In the year 1890, the Empress Eugenie Pearl and
Diamond Tiara was acquired by Prince Albert I, the 8th Prince of Thurn
and Taxis, who was the head of the House of Thurn and Taxis from 1885 to
1952. The Prince purchased the historical tiara as a wedding gift for
his wife, the Archduchess Margarethe Klementine of Austria, whom he
married on July 15, 1890. The tiara remained in the Thurn and Taxis
family and was worn again by Princess Gloria in 1980, on the occasion of her
marriage to Prince Johannes, the 11th Prince of Thurn and Taxis, who
headed the family from 1982 to 1990. They had three children, two
daughters and a son, Albert, who was the youngest, and succeeded his
father as the 12th Prince of Thurn and Taxis, after his death in 1990,
taking the name Albert II, the current head of the family.
Princess Gloria wearing the Empress Eugenie Tiara on the day of her wedding to Prince Johannes, 11th Prince of Thurn and Taxis
A short biography of
Prince Albert I, the 8th Prince of Thurn und Taxis
Prince Albert I, who was born on May 8, 1867, in
Regensburg, Germany, was the younger son of Maximilian, Hereditary
Prince of Thurn and Taxis (1831-1867) and Duchess Helene of Bavaria
(1834-1890). His father died in 1867, when he was less than two months
old and was raised by his mother. In the year 1871, when his grandfather
Maximilian Karl, the 6th Prince of Thurn and Taxis died, he was
succeeded by his elder brother Maximilian Maria as the 7th Prince of
Thurn and Taxis, who held the title until his death on June 2, 1885.
Albert I succeeded his elder brother Maximilian Maria, as the 8th Prince
of Thurn and Taxis in 1885, but being only 18 years old, his mother
served as regent until his 21st birthday in 1888. Albert I was made the
Duke of Worth and Donaustauf on May 8, 1889, by the Prince Regent of
Bavaria, and was made a knight of the Austrian Order of the Golden
Fleece, on November 30, 1889. Prince Albert I, married Archduchess
Margarethe Klementine, the daughter of Archduke Joseph Karl of Austria,
on July 15, 1890, in Budapest, Hungary. The marriage produced eight
children, seven boys and one girl. The eldest son Franz Joseph and the
3rd son Karl August succeeded respectively as the 9th and 10th Princes
of Thurn and Taxis. Prince Albert I died in 1952 at the age of 85 years,
after serving as the 8th Prince of Thurn and Taxis for 67 years. His
wife Archduchess Margarethe Klementine died 3 years later in 1955,
also at the age of 85 years.
Prince Albert I, 8th Prince of Thurn and Taxis
The Empress Eugenie
Pearl and Diamond Tiara is sold to the Louvre Museum in 1992
The Empress Eugenie Pearl and Diamond Tiara remained
in the Thurn and Taxis family up to the year 1992, the period of the
present Prince of Thurn and Taxis, Albert II, who succeeded as the 12th
Prince in 1990. The tiara was sold in 1992 by Princess Gloria, in order
to pay her taxes and fetched Deutsch Marks 935,000. The buyers of the Tiara
was the society "Amis de Louvre" (Friends of the Louvre) who purchased
it for the Louvre Museum, the rightful place where it should belong to.
The Empress Eugenie Pearl and Diamond Tiara, which is of great historic
significance, and part of the great cultural heritage of France and the
French people, has been finally restored to the Louvre Museum, its
former home, from where it was dispersed 105 year ago in 1887, due to
the short sighted policies of politicians. The historic tiara is proudly
displayed today in the Apollo Gallery of the Louvre Museum.
A short history of
the family of Thurn and Taxis
The origin of the
name Thurn und Taxis
The history of the Thurn and Taxis family dates back
to the early 12th century, when the Dukes of the Torriani took up
residence in Cornello, near Bergamo, after disputes over the command of
the city of Milan. Family tradition holds that these Italian Dukes were
the ancestors of the Taxis. Emperor Ferdinand III, who recognized the
Taxis as the successors of the Torriani, granted the Taxis permission
to integrate the Torre arms and name with their own. The tower (Thurn)
which is coat of arms of the Torre, was combined with the badger
(Taxis), the coat of arms of the Tasso, to give the name Thurn und
Taxis.
Laying the
foundation for an international postal system
The greatest achievement of the Thurn and Taxis
family, was the organization of the imperial postal system, the first of
its kind in Europe, in the late 15th century, which laid the foundation
for the development of an international postal system. The credit for
establishing a well organized courier service in Italy at the turn of
the 16th century, goes to Franz von Taxis. By the year 1516, the Taxis
family had a postal service based in Brussels, reaching Rome, Naples,
Spain, Prussia and France by courier. The family's services in the
development of the postal system was duly recognized by Emperor Mathias
in 1615, who elevated the position of imperial postmaster general as a
hereditary title in the male line of succession. With greater awareness
of the crucial role played by the family in developing a reliable
communication system in the 17th century, the family's standing also
rose from Imperial Free Baron in 1608 to hereditary Imperial Count in
1624, and towards the end of the 17th century, in 1695, under Emperor
Leopold I, as Imperial Prince.
Relocation of the
family from Frankfurt to Regensberg
The first Prince of Thurn and Taxis was Eugen
Alexander Franz, who served from 1695 to 1714. He was succeeded by
Anselm Franz as the second Prince, who served from 1714 to 1739. During
the period of the third Prince of Thurn and Taxis, Alexander Ferdinand
who served from 1739 to 1773, a significant event took place in the
history of the family, that saw the relocation of the family from
Frankfurt to Regensberg. Emperor Franz I appointed Prince Alexander
Ferdinand as principal commissioner for Regensberg in 1748, in which
capacity he served as the imperial representative at the Perpetual Diet
in Regensberg. This important and prestigious position required the
permanent presence of the principal commissioner in Regensberg, and
hence the need for the family to relocate to Regensberg. The Princes of
Thurn and Taxis held this prestigious position, until the dissolution of
the Holy Roman Empire. In Regensberg the Thurn and Taxis family took up
residence in the historic St. Emmeram Castle founded in 739 A.D. at the
gravesite of the itinerant Frankish bishop Saint Emmeram. In the year
1812, the monastic buildings were granted to the Princes of Thurn and
Taxis, who converted the complex into a residence, which came to be
known as Schloss Thurn and Taxis.
The family's other
business ventures
The family's lucrative Brussels-based
postal network remained in the family until the 18th century, when it
was bought up by the heir to the Spanish throne. The family then
diversified into other business activities such as the construction of
castles and the brewing industry. The family breweries that produced
popular beers under the brand name Thurn and Taxis was eventually
purchased in 1996, by the Munich-based Paulaner Group, who continued to
produce beers under the same brand name.
Contributions to
the cultural and social life of the people and philanthropic activities
Some of the greatest contributions made by the Thurn
and Taxis family, towards the advancement of cultural and social life in
Regensberg, were the founding of the Princely Court Library in 1786, by
Prince Carl Anselm, the 4th prince, based on his private collection of
2,330 volumes, who also founded the Regensberg theatre, and the "Green
Belt" around the old town. The family has also engaged in philanthropic
activities such as the founding and administration of numerous
hospitals, orphanages and charities. In the immediate aftermath of World
War I, Prince Albert I founded the "Princely Emergency Kitchen" to feed
the less fortunate people in society. This policy is still being
continued under Prince Albert I's grandson, the present Prince, Albert
II, and around 250 needy people are given a free hot meal every day.
You are welcome to discuss this post/related topics with Dr Shihaan and other experts from around the world in our FORUMS (forums.internetstones.com)
Related :-
1)
Marie Therese, Duchess d'Angouleme Emerald and
Diamond Tiara
2)
Emerald and Diamond Tiara of Marie Louise, Empress
of France
3)
Empress Eugenie Diamond
4)
La Regente Pearl - La Perle Napoleon
5)
Regent Diamond
External Links :-
1)
Thurn and Taxis family homepage
References :-
1) Neo-Classical Jewelry - Antique Jewelry
University, www.langantiques.comArchduchess
Margarethe Klementine of Austria - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
2) Pearl and Diamond Tiara of Empress Eugenie - www.royal-magazin.de/french/crown-jewels
3) Thurn und Taxis - From Wikipedia, the free
encyclopedia
4) Website of the Thurn and Taxis family
5) St. Emmeram Castle -
www.ulike.net
6) Richest Germans : Silver Spoon Baby, Germany,
Deutsche Welle -www.dw-world.de
