Origin of Name :-
Lot No. 149, described as "An Attractive Natural
Black Pearl Ring" was one out of 15 pieces of pearl jewelry, that
appeared at the Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, No.
7664, held at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, Dubai, in the United
Arab Emirates, on April 29, 2008. The piece registered a price of
$43,000 at the auction, even though the pre-sale estimate of the piece
was placed between $50,000 and $70,000. Perhaps, this was only piece of
pearl jewelry at the auction that sold below the lower estimated price.
Yet, the price of $43,000 can be considered as significant, given that
the weight of the pearl is only 5.84 carats, equivalent to 23.36 grains.
This gives a price per carat value of $7,363 for the pearl. In
comparison the price per carat realized at the same auction for another
black pearl, incorporated as a pendant, in the Belle Epoque Natural
Grey/Brown pearl pendent necklace, weighing 56.81 carats, was $13,536.
An attractive natural black pearl ring
Please click here for an enlarged image (External
Link)
©
Christie's
Characteristics of
the natural black pearl ring
The shape and weight
of the pearl
The natural black pearl incorporated in the ring, is
a perfectly spherical pearl, with a diameter of 13.7 mm and weighing
5.84 carats, equivalent to 23.36 grains. A perfectly spherical pearl can
have the same diameter all round, and therefore a variation in diameter
of 0%, or a slight variation in diameter of up to 2%. Thus, even if the
pearl had a short and long diameter of 13.4 mm and 13.7 mm or a short
and long diameter of 13.7 mm and 14.0 mm, yet the pearl would be
perfectly spherical, as seen from the following calculation :-
1) Variation in diameter = (1 - shortest
diameter/longest diameter) x 100%
= (1- 13.4/13.7) x 100 = (1 - 0.98) x 100%
= 0.02 x 100 = 2%
Therefore the variation in diameter = 2%
2) Variation in diameter = (1 - shortest
diameter/longest diameter) x 100%
= (1 - 13.7/14.0) x 100% = (1 - 0.98) x 100%
= 0.02 x 100 = 2%
Therefore the variation in diameter = 2%
Thus even if the long and short diameters of the pearl was 13.7
± 0.3 mm,
the pearl would still be considered perfectly spherical. Perhaps, this
variation in diameter of 2% has been allowed, as finding a perfectly
spherical pearl with 0% variation in diameter, is a very difficult
proposition.
The
color, overtones and luster of the pearl
The color of the pearl is a
silvery-black or silvery-grey color, where the black or grey color is
the main body color of the pearl, and the silver color an overtone
color. The black color of the pearl is due to melanin pigments
associated with the conchiolin part of the nacre. Overtones colors are
caused by an optical effect as light passes through successive layers of
nacre. In black pearls apart from silver color, a variety of overtone
colors such as gold, purple, blue, green, yellow, reddish-purple and
rainbow, can cause a combination of colors such as Tahitian gold (golden
black), cherry (purplish-black), lavender (bluish-black), peacock
(greenish-black), pistachio (greenish-grey), champagne (yellowish-grey),
aubergine (reddish-purple and black), rainbow (rainbow of colors and
black) etc. Peacock and pistachio are the most popular and much
sought-after colors in black pearls.
The luster of the pearl caused
by the reflection of light from the surface of the pearl and just below
the surface, is in keeping with the saltwater origin of the pearl.
Saltwater pearls usually have a luster greater than that of freshwater
pearls.
Design
of the ring
The metal used in the ring and the ring size are not
known. But, perhaps it could be silver, platinum or white gold. The
shoulders of the ring are set with single-cut diamonds.
History of the
natural black pearl ring
Can the ring be a
pre-20th century piece ?
Nothing is known about the previous owner, or the
historical provenance of the natural black pearl ring. The only feature
in the ring that may perhaps point to its antiquity is the use of
single-cut diamonds on its shoulders. But, the evidence is not
conclusive. Perhaps the metal used in the ring may give an indication as
to the antiquity of the ring. If the metal used in the ring is platinum
or white gold, the origin of the ring is the 20th-century, as platinum
was first introduced in the Belle Époque period between 1901 and 1915,
and white-gold was first introduced in the 1920s. On the other hand if
the metal used on the ring is silver or gold, the origin of the ring,
could be pre-20th century, as these were the main metals used in rings
at that time. A combination of silver or gold and single-cut diamonds on
the shoulder, may indicate the antiquity of the ring.
The possible sources
of the natural black pearl
The geographic
range of the black-lipped pearl oyster
Black pearls are usually produced in the black-lipped
pearl oyster Pinctada margaritifera, which has a wide geographical
distribution, in the tropical Indo-Pacific waters from the Persian Gulf
in the Indian Ocean, through the South Sea, to the Gulf of California,
in Mexico, in the Pacific Ocean; and in the Pacific Ocean from Japan in
the northern Pacific to the southern Pacific Islands of the French
Polynesia.
Persian Gulf was
the first source of natural black pearls, followed by Baja California,
in the 16th to 18th centuries.
In ancient times the first source of black pearls was
the Persian Gulf, where Pinctada margaritifera co-existed with the more
dominant species of pearl oysters, Pinctada radiata. In the 16-th
century, after the Spanish discovered rich pearl oyster resources in
Venezuela, they also discovered additional pearl resources in the Gulf
of California, in Mexico, and off the Pacific coast of Panama. The
oyster species discovered in the Gulf of California, was Pinctada
margaritifera that produced black pearls. Baja California, now became
the main source of black pearls, and significant quantities of these
black pearls entered the European markets, through Spain in the 16th to
18th centuries. The black pearls in Empress Catherine the Great's
(1729-1796) famous black pearl necklace, comprising 30 black pearls, the
largest of which was 78 grains, were believed to have originated from
Baja California. In the 18th-century, the Austrian Crown of the Habsburg
dynasty, was set with 30 black pearls, also believed to have originated
in Baja California.
The southern
Pacific Islands became the main source of natural black pearls in the
19th and early 20th centuries
In the 19th-century, the main source of natural black
pearls in the world was the southern Pacific Islands, which became a
French protectorate in 1842. Touamotu archipelago was the main source of
the black Tahitian natural pearls, which was actually a by product of
the pearl shell collection industry that persisted from 1820 to 1880.
The black pearls in Empress Eugenie de Montijo's (empress consort of
Napoleon III) black pearl necklace are believed to have originated in
the French Polynesia, which remained a source of natural black Tahitian
pearls even in the early 20th-century, even though pearls were becoming
scarcer due to over exploitation.
An alternative
source of natural black pearls was northern Australia in the late 19th
and early 20th centuries
Significant quantities of natural black pearls also
entered the markets from Australia, in the late 19th and early 20th
centuries, where the black-lipped pearl oyster was exploited in the
northern coast of Australia, from Champion Bay in Western Australia to
Moreton Bay in Queensland. Thus, if the natural black pearl in the ring
originated in the 19th-century or early 20th-century, the most probable
sources of the pearl were the French Polynesia or northern
Australia.
Laboratory report
issued by the Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain
The natural black pearl ring which was Lot No. 149 at
the Christie's auction, was accompanied by a laboratory report bearing
No.0127905, dated February 18, 2008, issued by the Gem Testing
Laboratory of Great Britain, authenticating that the pearl is natural
and free of any treatment.
The sale of the
natural black pearl ring
The natural black pearl ring was sold for $43,000 at
the Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, No. 7664, held on
April 29, 2008, in Dubai. The price realized was below the lower
pre-sale estimate of $50,000, and was one of two pieces of pearl jewelry
offered at the auction that sold below the estimated price. Out of the
15 lots of pearl jewelry offered at the auction, 7 lots sold for prices
much above the upper pre-sale estimate. The remaining 6 lots sold within
the pre-sale estimated range. The highest price realized was for Lot No.
178, a superb four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace that sold for
$1,743,400, which was slightly below the pre-sale estimated range of
$1,800,000 to $2,200,000. See table below.
Table of the 15 lots
of pearl jewelry that appeared at the Christie's auction in Dubai on
April 29, 2008, giving the pre-sale estimates and final prices realized
| S/N |
Lot No. |
Lot Description |
Pre-Sale Estimate |
Price Realized |
| 1 |
147 |
An imposing antique Indian natural pearl nine-row
necklace that belonged to Umm Kulthum, the legendary Egyptian singer |
$80,000-$120,000 |
$1,385,000 |
| 2 |
148 |
A fine pair of natural pearl and diamond ear pendants |
$60,000-$80,000 |
$157,000 |
| 3 |
149 |
An attractive natural black pearl ring |
$50,000-$70,000 |
$43,000 |
| 4 |
154 |
An attractive antique natural pearl and diamond pendent
brooch |
$60,000-$80,000 |
$97,000 |
| 5 |
155 |
A natural pearl and diamond pendent necklace |
$25,000-$35,000 |
$43,000 |
| 6 |
156 |
A natural pearl and diamond necklace |
$150,000-$180,000 |
$205,000 |
| 7 |
158 |
A pair of natural pearl earrings |
$20,000-$30,000 |
$29,800 |
| 8 |
159 |
A pretty group of natural pearl and diamond jewelry |
$35,000-$45,000 |
$73,000 |
| 9 |
160 |
An attractive pair of antique natural pearl and diamond
ear pendants |
$180,000-$250,000 |
$217,000 |
| 10 |
162 |
A natural pearl, diamond and ruby pendent necklace |
$45,000-$50,000 |
$94,600 |
| 11 |
163 |
A four-row natural pearl necklace |
$50,000-$80,000 |
$61,000 |
| 12 |
166 |
A highly important orange natural pearl |
$600,000-$800,000 |
$713,000 |
| 13 |
172 |
An important pearl and diamond suite, by Gerard |
$400,000-$600,000 |
$481,000 |
| 14 |
174 |
An exceptional belle époque natural grey/brown pearl
pendant necklace |
$700,000-$1,000,000 |
$769,000 |
| 15 |
178 |
A superb four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace |
$1,800,000 -$2,200,000 |
$1,743,400 |
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FORUMS (forums.internetstones.com)
Related :-
1)
Drexel Pearl
2)
Birk's Black Tahitian Double Row Pearl Necklace
3)
Three Strand Nina Dyer Black Pearl Necklace
4)
Belle Époque Natural Grey/Brown Pearl Pendent
Necklace
5)
Black Beauty Pearl
External Links :-
1) An Attractive Natural Black Pearl Ring -
Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, Auction Catalogue.
Sale No. 7664, Lot No.149. www.christies.com
References :-
1) An Attractive Natural Black Pearl Ring -
Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, Auction Catalogue.
Sale No. 7664, Lot No.149. www.christies.com
