Origin of Name :-
The natural pearl, diamond and ruby pendent necklace
was Lot No. 162 at the Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale,
No. 7664, held at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, Dubai, United Arab
Emirates, on April 29, 2008. The piece was one among 7 lots, out of
15 lots of natural pearl jewelry offered at this auctions, that
registered selling prices much above the upper pre-sale estimates,
indicating the strong auction market for natural pearls in the Middle
East, the main source of natural pearls for the entire world since very
ancient times, and until the early 20th-century, when the
introduction of cultured pearls by the Japanese, dealt the final death
blow to the ancient industry in the region.
Natural pearl, diamond and ruby pendant necklace
Please click here for an enlarged image (External
Link)
©
Christie's
Characteristics of
the natural pearl, diamond and ruby pendent necklace
The necklace is a
"choker" under the modern system of classification of pearl necklaces
The natural pearl, diamond and ruby pendent necklace
has a length of 41 cm (16 inches), which according to the modern system
of classification of pearl necklaces is a "choker" whose range of length
can vary from 14 inches to 16 inches.
Features of the
pear-shaped pearl drop, which is suspended as pendant to the necklace
The centerpiece of the necklace is its pendant, which
is a pear-shaped pearl drop suspended by a bow surmount. The pear-shaped
pearl drop has dimensions of 18.40 mm by 12.80 mm, the greatest length
and width of the pearl. The weight of the pear-shaped pearl is 18.58
carats which is equivalent to 74.32 grains. The color of the pearl is
silvery-white, in which white is the body color of the pearl and silver,
the overtone color. The luster and orient of the pearl is exceptional,
in keeping with its saltwater origin. The surface-quality of the pearl
is also exceptional, smooth and without any blemishes.
How the pearl drop is
suspended from the necklace ?
A bell-cap made of ruby is mounted on the narrow end
of the pear-shaped pearl. The ruby cap carries a yellow-gold loop
or ring
at the top, by which the pearl is suspended from the hook of the diamond
bow surmount above. The diamond bow surmount is bow-shaped and appears
to be made up of silver or platinum. The lowest central portion of the
bow is occupied by a circular mount, inside which is mounted an
old-European cut diamond with a circular girdle. A hook from below this
circular mount accommodates the ring on top of the ruby cap. 22 smaller
old-cut diamonds are mounted on the bow surmount, 11 diamonds on either side of
the circular mount. Provision has been made at either end of the bow
surmount in the form of a loop or ring for the attachment of the
necklace. This unique arrangement for suspending the pear-shaped pearl
pendant has converted the bow surmount into the lower part of the
necklace.
The composition of
the necklace
The two arms of the necklace attached to either end
of the bow surmount are made up of colored seed pearls interspersed with
ruby beads. The disc-shaped ruby beads are placed on the necklace after
every six colored seed pearls. The seed pearls are of assorted shapes
and colors. Most of the seed pearls appear to be button-shaped, but a
few are spherical, near-spherical and baroque in shape. The various
colors that can be seen among the seed pearls are white, silvery-white,
yellowish-white, cream, yellow, grayish-white and grey.
History of the
natural pearl, diamond and ruby pearl necklace
The possible period
of origin of the necklace, and the possible source of the pearls
The identity of the previous owner of this natural
pearl, diamond and ruby necklace is not known. The historical provenance
of the necklace is also not known. However certain features in the
necklace indicate its possible period of origin. The use of old-European
cut diamonds, and other old-cut diamonds possibly point to its
19th-century origin. The color and size of the pear-shaped pearl and the
assorted colors of the seed pearls indicate that the origin of the
pearls is the saltwater oyster species Pinctada radiata, the most
prolific pearl producer around which the natural pearl industry of the
world was based in ancient times. Pinctada radiata and Pinctada
imbricata are well known sources of seed pearls. Accordingly, the
probable source of the pearls in the necklace, is the Persian Gulf, the
Red Sea or the Gulf of Mannar, the hub of the international pearl trade
since ancient times. Venezuela is also a possible source, from where
seed pearls and other medium sized pearls produced by the Atlantic pearl
oyster, Pinctada imbricata entered the world markets in the 16th and
17th centuries, but was later abandoned due to depletion of pearl oyster
resources. Pinctada imbricata is now believed to be the same species as
Pinctada radiata, with minor regional variations. Thus, if the pearls in
the necklace originated after the 17th-century, the most probable source
of the pearls is the Persian Gulf or the Gulf of Mannar.
Laboratory report
issued by the Gubelin Gem Laboratory
The natural pearl, diamond and ruby pendent necklace
which was Lot No, 162, at the Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and
Watches Sale, was accompanied by a lab report bearing No. 9808057, dated
13th August 1998, issued by the Gubelin Gem Lab, indicating that the
white pear-shaped pearl, weighing 18.58 carats was a natural pearl.
Sale of the natural
pearl, diamond and ruby pendent necklace
A pre-sale estimate of $45,000 to $50,000 was
placed on the necklace, at the Christie's auction in Dubai, on April 29,
2008. However, after a keenly contested bid, the natural pearl, diamond
and ruby pendent necklace was sold for $94,600, which was $44,600 higher
than the upper pre-sale estimate. Seven out of 15 lots of pearl jewelry
that was offered for sale at the auction, sold for prices much above the
upper pre-sale estimate, because of the strong auction market for
natural pearls in this region, which was previously the main supplier of
natural pearls to the entire world.
Possible reasons for
the strong auction market for natural pearls in the Persian Gulf
countries
After the demise of the natural
pearl industry in the Persian Gulf region, mainly due to the
introduction of cultured pearls by the Japanese in the 1920s and 1930s,
the main source of income for the Gulf countries was
eliminated. This caused untold hardships and misery for the people of
the region who depended on harvesting natural pearls for their
livelihood. Not long afterwards, God almighty gave them a new source of
wealth, petroleum, which more than compensated for their lost
livelihood. Now, with the unprecedented development achieved in these
countries using their petroleum resources, the people of the Gulf
countries have attained a very high standard of living. But, the simple
people of these countries have not forgotten their past, and still try
to keep alive the age-old traditions of harvesting natural pearls, as in
Kuwait which organizes an annual pearl oyster harvesting festival in the
month of June.
Perhaps, the strong auction demand for natural pearls in the Gulf
region, may be for nostalgic reasons, trying to own something from the
past, which invariably originated in this region. Another, explanation
for the strong auction demand for natural pearls in this region, is the
general dislike of cultured pearls by the people of the region, who
believe that they are products of unfair human intervention, being
forced to grow inside the oysters. Practicing a religion that strongly
advocates peace with the natural environment gifted by God, the idea of
wearing pearls that oysters were forced to grow, was revolting in the
Arab mind-set, and considered unethical. However, such prejudices are
being gradually overcome, and cultured pearls have now indeed entered
the Arab markets.
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External Links :-
1)
A Natural Pearl, Diamond and Ruby Pendent Necklace
- Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, N0. 7664. Auction
Catalogue, Lot No.162. www,christies.com
References :-
1) A Natural Pearl, Diamond and Ruby Pendent Necklace
- Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, N0. 7664. Auction
Catalogue, Lot No.162. www,christies.com
