Princess Margaret's
Collection of Natural Pearl Jewelry
Among the 25 items of pearl jewelry in the Princess
Margaret's jewelry collection, at least 10 pieces incorporated natural
pearls in them. This webpage is dedicated to two such pieces of jewelry,
that were respectively Lots 161 and 162, at the auction of the renowned
collection, at Christie's London, on June 13, 2006.
1) A Pearl and Diamond Necklace - Lot 161
2) George III Seed Pearl and Diamond Ring - Lot 162
1) A Pearl and Diamond Necklace
Features of the
Necklace
The necklace is a
"Princess" under the modern system of classification of pearl necklaces
The three-row natural pearl necklace is 42 cm (17
inches) long, which according to the modern system of classification of
pearl necklaces, falls under the category of "Princess" with a range of
17 to 20 inches. The name "Princess" seems to be appropriate for the
necklace, being once owned by a renowned Princess, who was loved and
respected by her people.
Modern classification
of pearl necklaces based on the length of the strand
|
S/N |
Length of strand in inches |
Category |
|
1 |
10"-13" |
Collar |
|
2 |
14"-16" |
Choker |
|
3 |
17"-20" |
Princess |
|
4 |
21"-24" |
Matinee |
|
5 |
25"-34" |
Opera |
|
6 |
>35" |
Rope |
Difficulties encountered in
assembling a graduated natural pearl necklace
Even though the pearls in the necklace are natural,
they are described as graduated, being carefully matched for size and
shape, the larger pearls being paced in front of the strands and the
smaller pearls towards the rear. Matching for size, shape, color,
overtones, luster etc. is a difficult task for natural pearls, given the
variety of sizes, shapes, colors etc available, the rarity of spherical
and near-spherical pearls, and needs a large and unlimited supply of
pearls from which one can choose freely. On the contrary in cultured
pearls such a task is relatively easier, as the size and shape of the
pearls are more regular and consistent and can be controlled by choosing
beads of appropriate shapes, the regular turning over of the
beaded oysters, and controlling the grow out period.
A Pearl and Diamond Necklace
©
Christie's
The number of
pearls in the necklace and their shapes
The three rows of pearls in the necklace are attached in front
to the circular openwork vari-cut diamond pendant and on the rear to the
geometric diamond clasp. In the outermost row of the necklace, there are
50 pearls each on the left and right segments of the row. In the middle
row the number of pearls are 46 in each segment, and the innermost row
has 42 pearls in each segment. Thus the total number of pearls in the
necklace are 50 x 2 + 46 x 2 + 42 x 2 = 100 + 92 + 84 = 276 pearls. The
shape of the pearls in the necklace appear to be spherical and
near-spherical, the most desired shapes for such necklaces.
An estimate of the
minimum total weight of the pearls in the necklace
The size of the pearls in the necklace in terms of
its dimensions and weight are not known. The pearls however appear to be
just above the size of seed pearls, around 4 to 5 mm in diameter. Seed
pearls are defined as pearls having a diameter of less than 2 mm and
weight of less than quarter of a grain (50mg). Even if we assume each
pearl in the necklace to have a weight of a quarter grain, which is the
cut off point to decide whether a pearl is a seed pearl or not, the
total weight of all the pearls become 276 x ¼ = 69
grains or 17.25 carats (3.45 grams or 3,450 mg). Thus, the minimum
estimated total weight of all the pearls in the necklace is 17.25 carats
or 69 grains.
The
color, overtones, luster and orient of the pearls in the necklace
All pearls in the necklace seem to have the same hue
and tone, indicating they are all from the same source, originating from
the same species of pearl oyster. The color of the pearls is a
silvery-white, where white is the body color of the pearls and silver
the overtone color. The luster and orient of the pearls, caused
respectively by reflection and refraction of light, are in keeping with
the saltwater origins of the pearls, which is higher than that for
freshwater pearls. The color, overtone, luster and orient of pearls are
properties dependant on the thickness of nacre, and being natural pearls
made entirely of nacre (100% nacre), such properties are optimum for
these pearls.
The possible source
of the pearls
It is not known whether the necklace was inherited,
received as a gift from her grandmother, Queen Mary or her mother Queen
Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, or acquired by the Princess. In any case given the
fact that the pearls in the necklace are all natural, the necklace
undoubtedly must have been designed before the 1940s, when the last
natural pearls from the Persian Gulf entered the international pearl
markets, before the industry was totally abandoned. The characteristics
of the pearls, such as the size, color, overtone, luster and orient are
in keeping with natural pearls produced by the pearl oyster Pinctada
radiata, the most prolific pearl producing species in the entire history
of the natural pearl industry, whose natural home was the Persian Gulf,
the Red Sea and the Gulf of Mannar. Pearls produced by these species
were mostly seed pearls less than 2 mm in size, or smaller pearls with
an average size of 2 to 8 mm. The color of these pearls were white,
cream and yellow, with overtone colors of silver, pink and cream.
Silvery-white, pinkish-white, creamy-white, yellow and golden were some
of the hues found among these pearls. The desirable silvery-white hues
were more common among the pearls originating from the Gulf of Mannar,
in Sri Lanka, than in the pearls originating from the Persian Gulf, that
tended to have more yellowish hues. Yet the annual quantity of
production in the Persian Gulf, being much higher than that of the Gulf
of Mannar, the Persian Gulf was the main source of the high-quality
silvery-white natural pearls in the world.
The Sale of the Pearl
and Diamond Necklace
The Pearl and Diamond necklace was Lot No.161 at the
Christie's London auction of Princess Margaret's collection of jewelry
and Faberge, held on June 13, 2006. A pre-sale estimate of
£4,000 to £6,000 was placed on the necklace,
given the natural provenance of the necklace, supported by Laboratory
Report No.980084 dated March 20, 2006, issued by the Precious Stone
Laboratory, London, confirming that the pearls in the necklace were
natural. The necklace registered a selling price of £57,600 ($105,984),
which was almost 10 times higher than the upper pre-sale estimate. The
enhanced price realized was due to a combination of factors, such as the
natural provenance of the pearls, the royal provenance of the piece, and
above all the "Princess' Premium" generated by her popularity.
2) George III Seed
Pearl and Diamond Ring
Features of the
Cluster Ring
The George III, Seed Pearl and Diamond Cluster Ring,
is believed to have originated around the year 1790,
during the period of rule of King George III, who was the King of the
United Kingdom and Ireland from 1760 to 1820. The center of the
cluster is oval-shaped and set with 16 old-cut diamonds. The central
cluster of diamonds is surrounded by a border of oval and spherical
shaped, white seed pearls, 14 in number. As the central cluster is
oval-shaped, the seed pearl border also takes an oval shape. Each of the
shoulders of the ring is split into three segments, giving a hexagonal
appearance to the entire cluster of diamonds and pearls. The 16
diamonds and 14 pearls are mounted on gold
backed by silver foils, a characteristic feature of most Georgian jewelry.
Features of the seed pearls on the ring
The 14 seed pearls mounted on the ring are either
spherical or oval in shape.
The pearls have a white body color and a luster and brilliance,
characteristic of saltwater pearls. The ring is over 210 years old, and
the pearls still maintain their luster and brilliance. This is not
surprising as the pearls are natural and made entirely of nacre. Thus,
properties that are dependent on the thickness of nacre, such as color,
overtones, luster and brilliance, and orient, are at optimum levels in
natural pearls, and can be preserved indefinitely as long as good care
is taken of the pearls.
George III Seed Pearl and Diamond Ring
©
Christie's
Features in the ring that confirm
their Georgian provenance
Some of the features in the ring that confirm their
Georgian provenance are :-
1) The use of white diamonds and pearls on the ring.
2) The diamonds and pearls are backed with gold or
silver foil before
setting.
3) The creation of a seed pearl border on the ring.
Such seed pearl borders were common in pieces of jewelry of this period,
such as mourning, memorial and sentimental jewelry, eg. mourning
brooches and pendants incorporating the hair of a loved one, pendants
and brooches incorporating miniature portraits of loved ones.
Important features of
jewelry of the Georgian period
The Georgian period refers to the period of rule of
four successive kings of Great Britain, George I, George II, George III
and George IV, all from the House of Hanover, whose period of rule
extended from August 1, 1714 to June 26, 1830. Jewelry produced
during this period, have certain characteristics that set them apart
from other jewelry, and are known as Georgian Jewelry. Some of these
characteristics are :-
1) Gold with high carat content was preferred. Silver
settings were often used to accentuate the brightness of white diamonds. Alloy
of copper and zinc known as "pinchbeck" was introduced as a gold
substitute. "Berlin Iron" introduced in 1806, became popular during the
Napoleonic wars, as people surrendered their gold for the war effort.
Enameling in black, white and blue colors was common.
2) In the early 18th-century, gemstones preferred for
setting were diamonds. This coincided with the discovery of diamonds in
Brazil, which reached Europe in large quantities during this period.
When the Brazilian diamonds were not enough to meet the demand for white
diamonds, cheap substitutes such as rock crystal, marcasite, cut steel
and glass past copies were produced, whose quality and sophistication
even received the approval of royalty, who did not hesitate to wear them
in their courts. In the latter half of the 18th-century, colored stones
such as rubies, emeralds, sapphires, amethyst, garnet and topaz also
became popular, apart from organic gems like pearls, coral and ivory.
Faceted gemstones as opposed to cabochon cut ones, were developed during
this period. New diamond cuts known as the "Old mine-cut" was developed
in the 1700s and the "Old European-cut" the forerunner of the "Modern
Brilliant-cut" in the 1800s. These diamond cuts were superior to the
point-cut and single-cut developed in the 1300s and the "Rose-cut" and
"Briolette-cut" developed in the 1500s. The "Old European-cut"
actually evolved from the "Old mine-cut" in the 1880s during the
Victorian period.
3) The style of jewelry adopted was first Rococo,
during the reign of George I, followed by Gothic Revival and then
Neoclassical.
4) The type of settings employed were bezel settings,
foil-backed stones using silver or gold foil, in contrast to today's
openwork settings, low flat goldwork.
5) Type of jewelry popular during Georgian times,
include tiaras, aigrettes, jeweled hair bands, hair combs, chokers or
dog collars, rivieres with a row of diamonds or gemstones, multiple
cameos connected by chain to form a neckace, stomachers, brooches,
bracelets, index finger rings, girandole earrings, crosses, buckles,
square or rectangular shaped brooches with pearl borders, rings with
crowned-heart motif,
mourning, memorial and sentimental jewelry and cameos.
6) Motifs commonly used in Georgian jewelry
sévigné bow, hearts, ribbons, stars, mosaic, acorns,
urns, doves, phoenix, and floral motifs such as wheat and plumage,
flower garlands and bouquets of flowers.
7) Convertible jewelry such as a necklace
transforming into two bracelets, or a bracelet transforming into a
brooch and earrings were introduced during this period.
8) Both men and women wore jewelry during this
period. Men wore jeweled buttons on their coat, and jewels on the knees
of their breeches, shoe buckles, and pocket watches. Among women the
jewelry parure was favored, consisting of a matching necklace, earrings,
ring, bracelets, a tiara or aigrette.
Why antique jewelry
from the Georgian period are scarce?
Vintage jewelry from the Georgian period are the most
scarce and difficult to find. Why are antique jewelry from this period
very scarce? What happened to all the jewelry produced during this
period that spanned nearly 116 years. Some of the reasons that explain
the scarcity of Georgian jewelry are :-
1) As time passed emphasis was placed more on the
value of the material used on a piece of jewelry, than the styles
employed. Thus, the generations that followed tended to meltdown
Georgian pieces, disregarding the archaic value of their designs, and
went in for more modern and contemporary dessigns.
2) The life expectancy during the Georgian period was
very short, as modern medicine was yet to evolve. During this period
most of the population were still poor, and only the aristocrats and the
rich could afford to wear jewelry. Thus, not many jewelry pieces were
produced as in the subsequent periods, like the Victorian period, when
the industrial revolution, created more affluence, and more people could
afford to buy jewelry. During the Georgian period, even among those who
could afford to wear jewelry, the shortened life span prevented the
building up of large collections of jewelry.
Sale of the George
III Seed Pearl and Diamond Ring
The George III Seed Pearl and Diamond Ring was Lot
No.162 at the Christie's London auctions of Princess Margaret's
collection of jewelry and Faberge, held on June 13, 2006. A pre-sale
estimate of
£800 to £1,200 was placed on the
ring, a modest estimate given the antiquity of the piece of jewelry,
dating back by over 200 years. However, the piece registered an enhanced
price of £11,400 ($20,976), almost ten times the upper pre-sale
estimate, not because of the antiquity of the piece, but because of the
"Princess' Premium" being once owned by a Princess loved and respected
by the people, who vied with each other as one journalist put it, "to
own a slice of Princess Margaret's life."
You are welcome to discuss this
post/related topics with Dr Shihaan and other experts from around the
world in our
FORUMS (forums.internetstones.com)
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External Links :-
1)
Christie's Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No.161 - A Pearl And Diamond
Necklace.
www.christies.com/lotfinder
2)
Christie's Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No.162 - George III Seed
Pearl And Diamond Ring. www.christies.com/lotfinder
References :-
1)
Christie's Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No.161 - A Pearl And Diamond
Necklace. www.christies.com/lotfinder
2)
Christie's Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No.162 - George III Seed
Pearl And Diamond Ring. www.christies.com/lotfinder
3) Georgian Period Jewelry - Collectors Weekly.
www.collectorsweekly.com
4) 200 Years of Jewelry -
www.bijouxjewels.com/history
5) History of the usage of plant and animal motifs in
jewelry designs - The Tarantula Brooch. www.internetstones.com
