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Princess Margaret's
Collection of Natural Pearl Jewelry
This webpage is dedicated to two pieces of natural
pearl jewelry from H.R.H. Princess Margaret's jewelry collection, that
consisted of 25 pieces of pearl jewelry, out of which 15 pieces were
cultured pearl jewelry and the remaining 10, natural pearl jewelry. The
pieces of natural pearl jewelry dealt with on this webpage are :-
1) A Pearl and Gem-Set Ring - Lot 91
2) A Seed Pearl and Ruby Ring - Lot 96
1) A Pearl and Gem-Set Ring - Lot 91
Features of the Ring
The antique ring has a British ring size of K ½,
which is equivalent to 5⅜ USA ring size, with a diameter of 16 mm and
circumference of 50 mm; and Japanese ring size 10. The main component of
the ring is a large natural drop-shaped baroque pearl, which is
incorporated as its centerpiece, and held in place by a unique snake
motif, represented by a diamond studded snake, coiling around the
drop-shaped baroque pearl. The pearl is connected to the pear-shaped
head of the ring by a bell-cap arrangement from its narrower end. The
head of the snake lying somewhere in the middle of the broader end of
the pearl, is mounted with a cabochon-cut, oval-shaped, deep-red garnet.
The circular diamonds mounted on the snake are rose-cut diamonds. The
size of the diamonds decrease gradually from just below the head of the
snake, towards the tail. The diamonds and the garnet appear to be
bezel-set on the snake, surrounded by a rim of metal. This was one of
the earliest methods of setting gemstones into jewelry. The metal used
on the ring is silver, platinum or white gold.
Pearl and Gem Set Ring
Features and possible
source of the pearl
The pearl is drop-shaped, yet baroque, as the right
side of the pearl towards its broader end, as seen in the photograph,
bulges out more than the corresponding area on the left side. The color
of the pearl is silvery-white. The dimensions and weight of the pearl
are not known. The luster and orient of the pearl is in keeping with its
saltwater origin. Being an antique piece, the pearl would probably have
originated from one of the traditional sources of saltwater pearls in
the past, such as the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea or the Gulf of Mannar.
Possible period of
origin of the ring
Metal used on the
ring can give a broad indication of its period of origin
The metal used on the ring could give a broad
indication as to the possible period of origin of the ring. If the metal
used in the ring was silver, the ring could have originated anytime
during the long history of mankind, starting from Ancient Egypt
(3,000 B.C -1,000 B.C.) and Mesopotamia (3,000 B.C.- 2,000 B.C.),
when silver jewelry first appeared to the contemporary period, when
silver is still being used in jewelry. However, if the metal used in the
ring is platinum or white gold, the period of origin of the ring, is
definitely early 20th-century. Platinum was extensively used in jewelry
crafting only during the Belle Époque period, also known as the
Edwardian period, that extended from 1901 to 1920. White gold was first
used in jewelry in the 1920s, after the alloy based on
gold-nickel-palladium, was developed as a cheap alternative to platinum,
which became popular during the Edwardian period.
Snake and serpent
motif was popular during the Early-Victorian or Romantic Period
The snake motif can also give an indication as to the
possible period of origin. There were two periods in the history of
jewelry, when the snake and serpent motif was very popular. The first
was during the Early Victorian or Romantic Period (1837-1860), that
corresponded with Queen Victoria's youth, courtship, marriage, early
family life and until the death of her beloved husband Prince Albert in
1861. A revival of naturalistic themes in jewelry that were first
introduced during the Renaissance, replacing religious symbols, took
place during this period. Popular plant motifs used in jewelry were
flowers, bouquets of flowers, branches, leaves, grapes and berries.
Popular animal motifs used during this period, included the snake and
serpent motif, love and song birds and insects. Snakes in their coils,
were symbols of eternity and commitment, a belief that arose from
German/Scandinavian traditions. The snake motif was used on rings,
bracelets, necklaces, brooches and stickpins; and was depicted as coiled
serpents or snakes, holding or guarding a pearl or other precious gem.
Queen Victoria's engagement ring from Prince Albert, was in the form of
a serpent, the symbol of eternity and commitment, as believed by the
Germans. Jewelry were still hand
manufactured during this period, and metals used included 18k to 22k
gold, tri-color gold, silver and rolled gold. Gemstones used on jewelry
were rose-cut and old-European cut diamonds, and colored stones such as
ruby, emerald, sapphire, garnet, turquoise, amethyst, pink and golden
topaz, chalcedony, peridot, zircon, citrine, aquamarine, corals and seed
pearls.
Features of the
ring that points to its origin from the early-Victorian Period
Features in the ring that point to its possible
early-Victorian origin are as follows :-
1) The snake motif of the ring, guarding a pearl.
2) The use of rose-cut diamonds and cabochon-cut
garnet.
3) The bezel setting of the diamonds and garnet on
the serpent, one of the earliest methods of setting gemstones into
jewelry.
If together with the above three features, it is
known for certain that the metal used for the ring is silver, it is
almost 100% certain that the ring is of early-Victorian origin.
Snake and serpent
motif was also popular in the Art Nouveau period
The second period during which the snake and serpent
motif became very popular, was during the Art Nouveau Period from 1890
to 1920, which overlapped with the Edwardian period (1901-1920) in
Britain. Apart from the feminine form which was highly celebrated during
this period, natural motifs were also very popular. Animal motifs
included insects, birds and reptiles. Common insect motifs included
bees, dragonflies and butterflies; bird motifs, peacocks and swans; and
reptile motifs, snakes and serpents. Plant motifs included, undulating
vines, ferns, leaves of Gingko biloba, and flowers such as orchids,
irises, water lilies, poppies, ivy etc. Apart from gold and silver,
platinum was introduced during this period, and white gold in the 1920s
during the Art Deco period. Thus, if the metal used in the snake ring is
platinum, the origin of the ring is from the Art Nouveau Period
(1890-1920), and if the metal used is white gold, its origin becomes Art
Deco, despite the presence of other antique features, such as the rose-cut
diamonds and the bezel settings.
Sale of the Pearl and
Gem-Set Snake Ring
The Pearl and Gem-Set Snake Ring was Lot No.91, at
the Christie's London Sale 7335, of Princess Margaret's jewelry and
Faberge collection, held on June 13, 2006. A pre-sale estimate of
£700 to £900 was placed on the antique snake ring,
which was indeed a bargain considering the historic provenance of the
piece. However, the snake ring sold for an enhanced price of £12,000
($22,080), not because of its 19th-century historic provenance, but
because of the so-called "Princess' Premium" the demand created by her
popularity, and the urge to own something that was once used by a
Princess, whom they loved and respected.
2) A Seed Pearl and Ruby Ring - Lot
96
Features of the Pearl
and Ruby Cluster Ring
The cluster ring executed probably in 18-carat yellow
gold, has as its centerpiece a cluster, consisting of a centrally placed
octagonal-cut ruby, surrounded by six baroque, white, seed pearls, with
curved or round outer surfaces. On either side of the central cluster,
is a carved foliate motif shoulder, somewhat triangular-shaped, also set
with three oval-shaped, baroque seed pearls, smaller than the central
seed pearls. Another smaller ruby appears to be mounted between the
central cluster and the two shoulders.
Seed pearl and ruby ring
Sources of seed
pearls since ancient times
The baroque shaped seed pearls are 2 mm or less in
size, in keeping with the definition of seed pearls. They are natural,
as all seed pearls are, whether formed in the wild or as a by product of
pearl culturing. The seed pearls mounted on this ring appear to have
been harvested in the wild. Such harvesting of natural pearls from
saltwater oysters occurring in the wild, had been taking place in
different parts of the world, since very ancient times. The most ancient
of these sources being the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea and the Gulf of
Mannar, where sustainable exploitation of oysters had taken place for
thousands of years, using primitive techniques, without damaging the
natural habitat of the oysters. Such exploitation took place until
around 1910 in the Gulf of Mannar, and up to around the 1940s in the
Persian Gulf. In contrast the intensive exploitation of pearl oysters in
Venezuela, by the Spanish, after the pearl banks were discovered by
Christopher Columbus in 1498, led to total depletion of resources within
150 years, until the exploitation was abandoned around 1650. Significant
quantities of seed pearls were discovered in all these historical pearl
banks, and seed pearls usually occurred in clusters inside the oysters.
Uses of seed pearls
since ancient times. The use of seed pearls in jewelry reached a climax
during the early-Victorian period.
The art of drilling seed pearls were mastered by the artisans of Asia
countries, such as India, Persia, and the Arab nations, and these seed
pearls were strung into long strands, and used as interior decorations
or transformed into spectacular twisted rope necklaces, comprising
strands of different colors. The seed pearls were also used for
embroidery work on royal robes or expensive carpets. Even in Britain in
the 16th-century royal gowns and robes were embroidered with seed
pearls, and Queen Elizabeth I, is reported to have owned at least 3,000
such gowns. However, the use of seed pearls in jewelry reached its
climax in the early-Victorian period also known as the Romantic period,
between 1837 and 1860. Seed pearls were considered as a symbol of purity
and innocence, and seed pearl jewelry were often given as presents to
young unmarried virgin girls, especially on their 18th birthday, and
young virgin brides. Seed pearl jewelry were also worn on special
occasions through out a woman's married life. Seed pearl jewelry of this
period were often produced in matching sets or parures, consisting of a
necklace, pendant earrings, brooches and bracelets, with yellow gold
accents ad clasps.
Possible source of
the seed pearls on the ring
The period of origin of the Seed Pearl and Ruby Ring
is not known, but it appears to be relatively modern from the type of
setting and workings employed. However, whether it originated in the
19th or 20th century, the main source of seed pearls during this period
was the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea or the Gulf of Mannar, as the sources
of seed pearls in the New World had already been exhausted. The seed
pearls on the ring do not look like "keshi" pearls, a by product of the
Akoya pearl culturing industry in Japan, which are also considered by
some to be natural seed pearls, even though the CIBJO, the International
Confederation of Jewelry considers them as non-beaded cultured pearls
formed accidentally or intentionally by human intervention in marine
pearl oysters such as the Akoya pearl oyster.
Sale of the Seed
Pearl and Ruby Ring
The Seed Pearl and Ruby Ring was Lot No.96, at the
Christie's London Auctions of Princess Margaret's collection of jewelry
and Faberge, held on June 13, 2006. A pre-sale estimate of
£600
to
£800 was placed on the ring, but in keeping with the enhanced trend
shown at the auctions, the lot was sold for £5,040, six times more than
the upper pre-sale estimate
You are welcome to discuss this
post/related topics with Dr Shihaan and other experts from around the
world in our
FORUMS (forums.internetstones.com)
Related :-
1) Cultured
Pearl Necklace and Earclips from Princess Margaret's collection
2) Princess
Margaret's Five Row Art Deco Pearl And Diamond Necklace
3) Cultured
Pearl Jabot-Pin & Coral and Cultured Pearl Bracelet, Princess Margaret's
Jewelry Collection
4) Cultured
Pearl Necklace and Ear clips from Princess Margaret's Collection
5) Grey
Cultured Pearl Bermuda Cedar Brooch
6) Cultured
Pearl , Turquoise and Diamond Earclips
7)
Natural Pearl Jewelry- Princess Margaret's Collection
External Links :-
1)Christie's
Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No.91 - A Pearl and Gem-Set Ring.
http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/lot_details.aspx?intObjectID=4718079
2)Christie's
Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No. 96 - A Seed Pearl and Ruby
Ring.
www.christies.com/lotfinder
References :-
1)Christie's
Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No.91 - A Pearl and Gem-Set Ring.
www.christies.com/lotfinder
2)Christie's
Sale 7335 - Sale Catalogue, Lot No. 96 - A Seed Pearl and Ruby
Ring.
www.christies.com/lotfinder
3) Keshi Pearls -
www.internetstones.com
4) Seed Pearl Jewelry - Vintage
Jewelry Lane.
www.vintagejewelrylane.com
5) Early Victorian Period -
FrenchQuarter Jewelry.
www.frenchquarterjewelry.com
6) History of the Usage of Plant
and Animal Motifs in Jewelry - Tarantula Brooch. www.internetstones.com
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