Origin of Name :-
The pair of natural pearl earrings was Lot No. 158,
at the Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, No. 7664 held
in Dubai, at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, on April 29, 2008. This
all-pearl earring realized a price of $29,800, which was within its
pre-sale estimate of $20,000 to $30,000.
Pair of natural pearl earrings with a circular design
Please click here for an enlarged image (External
Link)
©
Christie's
Characteristics of
the pair of natural pearl earrings
The circular design
of the pair of earrings
Each earring has a circular
design, with a central, prominent, button-shaped pearl, surrounded by
two rows of beaded smaller pearls. A second large spherical pearl,
smaller than the central spherical pearl is placed just below it. The
metal wires used to support the pearls in the earring appear to be made
of silver or platinum. The whole framework of the earring appears to be
supported by two main cross wires, one vertical and the other
horizontal. The central button-shaped pearl appears to be resting on
these cross wires. The two rows of beaded pearls are strung together by
wires which are also fixed to the cross wires. The second large
spherical pearl is placed over the rows of smaller pearls just below the
central pearl and in line with the vertical cross wire.
Are the central large
pearls in the earrings actually button-shaped ?
In one earring, the central
pearl described as a button-shaped pearl has dimensions of 12.21 mm and
11.24 mm, and a weight of 12.31 carats, equivalent to 49.24 grains. In
the other earring, the central button-shaped pearl has dimensions of
12.19 mm and 10.82 mm, and a weight of 11.35 carats, equivalent to 45.40
grains.
In each of these button-shaped pearls we can
determine the variation in diameter, and verify whether they are
actually button-shaped.
1) Calculating the variation in diameter of the pearl
weighing 49.24 grains
Variation in diameter = (1 - shortest
diameter/longest diameter) x 100%
= (1 - 11.24/12.21) x 100 = (1 - 0.92) x 100
= 0.08 x 100 = 8%
Variation in diameter of perfectly spherical pearls =
0% to 2%
Variation in diameter of near-spherical pearls = 3%
to 19%
Variation in diameter of button-shaped pearls > 20%
Thus the pearl weighing 49.24 grains, with a
variation in diameter of 8%, is actually a near-spherical pearl, even
though it is described as a button pearl.
2) Calculating the variation in diameter of the pearl
weighing 45.40 grains
Variation in diameter = (1 - 10.82/12.19) x 100 = (1
- 0.89) x 100
= 0.11 x 100 = 11%
Thus the pearl weighing 45.40 grains, with a
variation in diameter of 11%, is also a near-spherical pearl, even
though it is also described as a button pearl.
The shape of the
smaller beaded pearls
The small beaded pearls surrounding the central pearl
have assorted shapes, but most of them appear to be button-shaped. There
are also spherical, near-spherical, and oval-shaped pearls among
them.
The color, overtones,
luster and orient of the pearls
The most striking feature of the pearls on the
earrings, is the similarity in color of all the pearls incorporated in
them. The pearls are white with a slightly pinkish overtone. White is
the body color of the pearls and pink the overtone color. The luster and
orient of the pearls, caused respectively by reflection and refraction
of light, are also exceptional, in keeping with their saltwater origins,
imparting a spectacular overall beauty to the pair of earrings.
History of the pair
of natural pearl earrings
The possible oyster
species in which the pearls originated
Nothing is known of the historical provenance of the
circular pair of natural pearl earrings. However, the pinkish-white
color and the range in size of the pearls seem to suggest that they
originated in the prolific pearl oyster species Pinctada radiata, the
species around which the international pearl industry was based since
very ancient times. White and yellow are common body colors of pearls
produced by this species, and pink, silver and cream are common overtone
colors produced. Pearls produced are usually medium sized varying from 2
mm to 10 mm. Quite a lot of seed pearls were also produced by this
species, apart from the occasional large pearls greater than 10 mm in
size. Pearls of both regular and irregular (baroque) shapes were
produced. Among the regular shapes produced, were spherical,
near-spherical, button, oval, and drop shapes. However, baroque shapes
were more common than regular shapes.
The possible source
of the pearls
Given that the possible oyster species in which the
pearls originated is Pinctada radiata, we could suggest the possible
sources of these pearls. The most possible source of the pearls, is the
Persian Gulf, the Red Sea or the Gulf of Mannar, the natural home of
Pinctada radiata, around which the international pearl trade was based
for thousands of years. Another possible source was Venezuela in South
America, where pearl oysters related to Pinctada radiata, the Atlantic
pearl oyster (Pinctada imbricata) was harvested by the Spanish in the
16th and 17th centuries, but was abandoned in the mid-17th century due
to depletion of resources by over exploitation.
Laboratory report
issued by the Swiss Gemological Institute
The pair of natural pearl earrings, was accompanied
by a laboratory report, bearing No.49188, dated August 15, 2007, issued
by the Swiss Gemological Institute, indicating that the four larger
pearls in the pair of earrings were natural saltwater pearls.
Sale of the pair of
natural pearl earrings with a circular design
A pre-sale estimate of $20,000 to $30,000 was placed
on the pair of natural pearl earrings, that was Lot No. 158 at the
auction. The lot was sold for $29,800, which was within the estimated
range. Out of 15 lots of pearl jewelry offered at the auction, 8 lots
sold within the pre-sale estimated range. The remaining 7 lots sold much
above the upper estimated range; one piece particularly selling for
almost 12 times the upper estimated range of $120,000. This piece was
the famous Umm Kulthum Nine-Row Pearl Necklace, which was sold for a
staggering $1,385,000. Historical provenance of the pearl necklace was
no doubt the main factor that enhanced the value of this necklace.
However, the highest price recorded at the sale was Lot No. 178, a
Superb Four-Row Natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, which was sold for
$1,743,400, within the pre-sale estimated range of $1,800,000 to
$2,200,000
You are welcome to discuss this
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world in our
FORUMS (forums.internetstones.com)
Related :-
1)
Pair of Antique Natural
Pearl and Diamond Ear Pendants.
2)
Fine Pair of Natural Pearl
and Diamond Ear Pendants
External Links :-
1)
A Pair of Natural Pearl Earrings - Christie's
Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, Auction Catalogue. Sale No. 7664.
Lot No. 158. www.christies.com
References :-
1) A Pair of Natural Pearl Earrings - Christie's
Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale, Auction Catalogue. Sale No. 7664.
Lot No. 158. www.christies.com
