Origin of name
The Paspaley Pearl, which is perhaps the most perfect
pearl ever created by human intervention, gets its name from the Company, Paspaley Pearl Pty Ltd. who were responsible for culturing the pearl
inside the pearl oyster Pinctada maxima, in one of their pearl farms off
the coast of northern Australia in the year 2002. The exceptional South
Sea cultured pearl has a perfect spherical shape, the most valued shape
for natural or cultured pearls, and has a silvery-white color with a
soft pink overtone, with a satin-like luster characteristic of South Sea
pearls. The pearl also has gone down on record as one of the largest
cultured pearls ever produced. Thus a combination of desirable
characteristics such as the perfect spherical shape, the color, luster
and extraordinary size, has made the Paspaley Pearl one of the most
famous cultured pearls in the world. The pearl is now part of the
valuable collection of unique pearls maintained by the company.
Characteristics of
the pearl
The size and weight
of the pearl
The Paspaley Pearl was cultured inside the pearl
oyster Pinctada maxima, the silver-lip pearl oyster, in one of the pearl
farms maintained by the Paspaley Pearl Company, off the coast of
northern Australia, in Darwin. The pearl was harvested in the year 2002,
and given the fact that the minimum time given for the growth of
cultured South Sea pearls is two years, the oyster that produced the
pearl would have probably remained submerged in the farm for a minimum
period of two years, after being seeded in the year 2000. It is not
known whether the seeding of the oyster took place prior to the year
2000, so that the growth period of the pearl would be more than two
years. However, the size of cultured South Sea pearls after the minimum
growth period of two years, have been found to vary between 9 to 20 mm,
with an average size of about 13 mm. Thus the Paspaley Pearl with a
uniform diameter of 20.40 mm, might as well have been produced during
this minimum period of two years. In comparison with the average size of
South Sea pearls produced, which is 13 mm, the size of the Paspaley
Pearl is approximately 50% larger. Thus the Paspaley Pearl, becomes one
of the largest cultured pearls ever produced. In terms of its weight too
the Paspaley Pearl is quite large with a weight of 12.188 grams,
equivalent to 60.940 carats or 243.760 grains.
©
Paspaley Pearls
The shape of the
pearl
The diameter of the pearl is uniform right round,
equal to 20.40 mm. If there is any variation in the diameter it is
undoubtedly less than 2%, and the roundness is greater than 98%. Such
pearls having a variation in diameter of less than 2% and a roundness
between 98% and 100% are defined as perfectly round or spherical pearls.
Thus the Paspaley Pearl undoubtedly qualifies for the status of a
perfectly spherical pearl. The perfect spherical shape of the pearl is
attributed to the nacre being laid in exceptionally uniform layers
around the nucleus of the cultured pearl.
The color of the
pearl
The color of the pearl is a silvery-white, a common
body color of pearls produced by the silver-lip pearl oyster. Other
colors produced by this oyster are silver, silver-pink and cream. The
body color may be caused either by pigments, or as recent research
suggests, by interference colors produced by the "edge band structure"
in the nacre, which is characteristic of the width of the structure. For
silver pearls the width of the "edge band structure" is 74 nm. For cream
pearls the width is 80 nm and for golden pearls it is 90 nm. According
to this research the body color of pearls is caused by the colors
produced by the "edge band structure" mixing with the specular
reflection of the nacre, and being modified by any pigmentation present.
Overtone in the pearl
Besides its silvery-white body color, the pearl also
has a soft-pink overtone. Overtones are overlying colors that appear to
float over the surface of the pearl. They are translucent colors that
appear on top of the pearl's main body color. The overtones tend to
modify the body color of the pearl, besides adding depth and glow to the
pearl. Overtones, like iridescence are also caused by the interference
of light as it passes through the alternating layers of aragonite and
conchiolin in the nacre.
The luster of the
pearl
The satin-like luster of the pearl, which is deep,
rich and luxurious, is characteristic of South Sea pearls, which helps
to distinguish them from other pearls. The luster of the pearl is a
measurement of the quality and quantity of light that reflects from the
surface and just under the surface of a pearl. In other words it is the
reflective quality or brilliance of the surface of the pearl's nacre.
Luster of a pearl is closely associated with the thickness of the nacre.
Thicker the nacre the more lustrous a pearl becomes. Thus the rich
color, the soft overtones and the brilliant satin-like luster are all
attributed to the thick nacre produced around the nucleus of the pearl,
which in cultured South Sea pearls may be as high as 2-6 mm, higher than
any other cultured pearl in the world. The luster and brilliance of
South Sea pearls, thus surpasses that of all other pearls, making them
unique and distinctive, and the most valuable pearls in the world.
History of the
Paspaley Pearl
A short history of
the Paspaley family
Arrival
and settling in Cossack, Western Australia, in 1919
The Paspaley family headed by Theodosis Michael
Paspalis first migrated to western Australia from Kastellorizo, in
Greece, in the year 1919, and settled in the port city of Cossack, which
was then an important pearling center in western Australia, with a
cosmopolitan population of Europeans, Asians and Aborigines. Pearling
being the only viable industry in the area, Theodosis made an investment
in a pearl lugger, and took a keen interest in pearling activities.
However, 5 years after his arrival in Cossack, Theodosis passed away,
and his children Michael, Nicholas and Mary continued to maintain an
interest in pearling activities.
Migration
northwards to Port Hedland and Broome
Western Australia during this period was the center
of the mother-of-pearl industry in the world, producing almost 80 % of
the world's requirement of mother-of-pearls, used in the shell button
industry. The family migrated from Cossack northwards to Port Hedland
and then to Broome in northwestern Australia, as the pearl-oyster beds
in the previous locations were exhausted, and pearling was no more
economical. Nicholas Paspalis was first introduced to the trade at the
age of 14, and in the year 1932, when he was 18 years of age, was
manning his own pearl lugger, diving for oyster shells. After arriving
in Broome, Nicholas Paspalis, set up the family business in the town and
changed the family name to Paspaley. Broome became internationally
renowned as the center of the mother-of-pearl production, and in 1925,
had 400 pearling luggers engaged in the industry, producing almost 80%
of the world's requirement of mother-of pearls.
The collapse of
the pearling industry in the 1930s and 1940s and its subsequent revival
and final collapse in the mid-1950s
The pearling industry collapsed in the 1930s and
early 1940s during the period of the worldwide depression, followed by
World War II. Disaster struck the pearling industry in Broome, as 500
Japanese divers engaged in the industry were arrested and interned until
the war ended. Most of the pearl luggers were also destroyed for fear of
falling into enemy hands or were taken over by the Australian navy. The
population of Broome was also evacuated during the period of the war,
and Nicholas Paspaley moved to Port Hedland, where he remained till the
end of the war. After the war the Australian Government replaced the
Japanese divers with Kalymnian divers from the Kalymnos in the
Aegean. The industry once again boomed with an unprecedented demand,
that kept prices very high until the mid-1950s. Immediately after the war Nicholas Paspaley purchased
four pearl luggers that were abandoned by the Australian Navy on
Darwin's Dinah beach, and became the first person to resume pearling
activities, operating from Darwin. He continued with his pearling
operations from Darwin, during the boom period, until the collapse of
the industry, with the advent of plastic buttons.
Nicholas Paspaley
establishes the first cultured pearl farm in Australia in Kuri Bay in
1956, and a second farm in Port Essington in 1963
Undeterred by the
sudden turn of events in the international market for mother-of-pearls,
Nicholas Paspaley diverted his attention towards the culturing of South
Sea pearls, trying to draw a lesson from what the Japanese had achieved
with the Akoya pearls. In the year 1956, Nicholas Paspaley went into
partnership with a Japanese businessman Mr. Kuribavashi, and established
the first cultured pearl farm in Australia, in Kuri Bay, named in his
honor, 420 km north of Broome. Japanese pearl culturists assisted in
this project, and tried to apply the successful techniques developed for
Akoya pearls in Japan, for the culturing of South Sea pearls using the
largest pearl-oyster in the world, the silver and golden-lipped pearl
oyster Pinctada maxima. The results were not encouraging due to the high
mortality of pearl oysters during their transfer to the farms from the
deep sea, and particularly after the seeding process. In 1963, another
pearl farm was started at Port Essington, East of Darwin, in
collaboration with another Japanese company, Arafura Pearling Company,
but this too suffered the same fate as the Kuri Bay farm.
Nicholas Paspaley
and his team of Scientists develop new techniques for all phases of
pearl culturing to suit conditions in Australia
Nicholas Paspaley was not discouraged, and he
together with his son Nicholas Paspaley Junior, and his team of
technicians and scientists, did extensive research on the problems
encountered by them, making observations, collecting data, and evolving
solutions to all the problems, while developing new techniques for every
phase of the pearl culturing process, to suit the conditions in western
Australia. They realized that the pearl farming methods borrowed from
Japan did not suit the conditions in Australia, and had an adverse
effect on the frail and sensitive Pinctada maxima oysters, which was
very sensitive to environmental changes such as pollutants, removal from
the natural environment to the farm environment, being out of water for
long periods and other stressful situations. Thus the Paspaley team took
all steps necessary to reduce the stress placed on the oysters, such as
seeding of pearls in sterile conditions in a floating laboratory, on a
pearling ship, and transferring the seeded pearls to their natural
environment immediately for an initial period, before transferring them
to the sea-based farms, where conditions were almost identical to the
natural conditions. Thus the time spent by the oysters out of water was
reduced to a minimum. The results achieved were phenomenal with a high
survival rate, and bigger and more luxurious pearls.
The company
realizes the vision of its founder Nicholas Paspaley Senior and emerges
as the world's leading producer of cultured South Sea pearls
Paspaley Pearling Company has today become the
undisputed leader in the culturing of South Sea pearls, and have set the
standards for the culturing of these pearls, followed by other countries
with a coastline in the South Sea, such as Indonesia, Philippines,
Malaysia, Thailand, and Myanmar. The Company now manages 20 pearl farms
situated along a 2,500 km stretch of coastline in northern and western
Australia, situated in pollutant-free pristine waters in isolated bays,
that also afforded some protection from seasonal cyclones. The Company
has more than a dozen ships and several smaller working craft, that are
used for all steps of the pearl production cycle, such as fishing,
transport, seeding, husbandry and harvesting. besides delivering
supplies and maintenance. Three light aircraft supplement the effort of
the ships, and are used for crew movements and carrying supplies on a
daily basis. During his 57 years of working life Nicholas Paspaleys
vision for his company became a reality, with Paspaley Pearling Company
emerging as the world's leading producer of quality South Sea cultured
pearls. He died in 1984 at the age of 71, and was succeeded by his son
Nicholas Paspaley Junior, who together with his sister Roselyn is now
managing the company.
Nicholas Paspaley Junior
©
Paspaley Pearls
Cultivation of South
Sea pearls
The South Sea cultured pearl production cycle
consists of four main steps. These are :- 1) Fishing (Diving) 2)
Seeding 3) Husbandry 4) Harvesting
1) Fishing for pearl
oysters by diving
Restrictions
placed on the fishing of wild oysters under the sustainable resource
management plan
In Australia the culturing of South Sea pearls is
mainly carried out in "wild shells" collected from deep sea oyster beds
off the coast of western and northern Australia. The use of
hatchery-bred oysters for pearl culturing is minimal in spite of
Government efforts to promote the use of such oysters in order to
conserve wild stocks of oysters. In any case the use of wild oysters for
seeding is strictly controlled under the government's sustainable
resource management plan, under which strict quotas are imposed on pearl
cultivators, that stipulates the maximum number of wild shells that can
be harvested each year by any peal cultivator. There are round 16 major
producers of cultured South Sea pearls, and the total quota allowed for
them is 500,000 wild oysters and 350,000 hatchery-bred oysters per year. Moreover restrictions
have also been placed on the size of the wild shells that can be
harvested, only allowing shells that have a dorso-ventral shell length
greater than 120 mm (12 cm) to be collected. The sustainable resource
management plan of the Government has the full co-operation of the pearl
cultivators who are convinced of the necessity of such measures to
ensure that natural oyster stocks remain self-sustaining at present
levels of annual harvesting.
The location of
off shore oyster beds in Western Australia, Northern Territory and
Queensland
In western Australia offshore shell beds are found
from Exmouth Gulf in the south to the Lacepede Islands in the north, and
includes the renowned oyster beds off the Eighty Mile Beach, located
almost halfway between the towns of Broome and Port Hedland, and first
discovered in the late 19th century. In the Northern Territory of
Australia the offshore oyster beds are found along the Arnhem Land coast
in the northeast of the territory, between Golburn and Crocodile
Islands. In Queensland the oyster beds are found west of Badu Island, in
the Torres Strait.
Collection of wild
shells by hookah-equipped divers. The creation of dump sites or
nurseries
Shells greater than 120 mm (12 cm) in shell length are
collected by teams of up to six divers operating from ocean-going
vessels. The shells are hand-picked from the oyster beds by
hookah-equipped divers, causing minimum damage to the beds. Hookah
divers are supplied with air from the surface via an air compressor,
that enable them to work underwater for long periods of time. Each diver
undertakes about 10 dives in a day.
After collecting, the wild shells are cleaned and placed in net panels of
6 or 8 shells. The panels are then tied to long lines that are moored to
the bottom of the sea bed to create "dump sites." These "dump
sites" or "nurseries" are created closer to the natural oyster beds in
order to ensure that the natural environment of the oysters is
maintained. The oysters remain in the "nursery" for a short period of
time until they are seeded later in the season
2) Seeding of the
oysters
Seeding operation
carried out at the collection and dumping sites in surgically clean
laboratories on board the pearling ships
Previously oysters from "dump sites" were transferred
to land based farms, where the seeding operations were carried out. This
placed a lot of stress on the oysters and their mortality was very high,
before and after the seeding process. Besides the radical change in
environment from what obtains in the natural environment of the oysters
beds also had an adverse impact on the oysters, increasing their
mortality. To overcome both these problems Nicholas Paspaley introduced
the use of pearling ships, equipped with surgically clean laboratories
and operating facilities, where the seeding operations were carried out
by Japanese-trained technicians, closer to the oyster beds as well as
the "dump sites" or "nurseries." Presently, out of the 12 ships
owned by the Paspaley Pearling Company Proprietary Ltd. the ship
Paspaley IV, fully equipped to undertake sterile seeding procedures, is
assigned with the all important task of seeding the oysters for a few
months each year. The oysters that are taken aboard the ship from the
"nurseries" are kept alive by constantly circulating sea water, until
the seeding operation is carried out. Each wild shell is implanted with
a round nucleus obtained from the thick shell of the freshwater
Mississippi mussel, and a small piece of mantle tissue from a
"sacrificial" oyster. The diameter of the nucleus can vary from 6.6-14
mm, depending on the size of the shell to be implanted, and the number
of times the shell has been previously implanted. Usually as the number
of implantations increase the size of the cultured pearl also increases,
requiring a larger nucleus to be implanted. Each seeding-technician can
operate on 550 to 600 shells in a day.
Three-month
post-implantation period in the nursery or dump site before transferring
to the pearl farms
After seeding the implanted shells are again placed
in the net panels tied onto longlines that are moored to the bottom of
the sea bed at "dump sites" or "nurseries," where they remain for
the next three months. This initial period still in the natural
environment of the oysters, helps the seeded pearl oysters to recuperate
after the somewhat traumatic seeding operation. The seeded oysters are
inspected and turned regularly by divers. The regular turning of the
seeded oysters ensures that an even envelop of nacre secreting cells
forms a sac around the nucleus, which eventually results in a spherical
pearl. After this initial three-month post-implantation period in the
nursery, during which the pearl oysters successfully overcome the stress
caused by seeding, the net panels are retrieved, and the seeded shells
transported extremely carefully by boat to pearl farms situated in well
protected coastal bays and inlets. This takes place during the warm
months of October- December.
3) The husbandry
process or growout period
Two ways of
placing the implanted shells in net panels in the farm
The pearl farm growout sites where the husbandry
process takes place, should have environmental conditions comparable to
the natural environmental conditions of the oyster beds, with pristine
waters free of pollutants that promote the growth of the plankton soup
on which the oysters survive. There are two ways of placing the
implanted shells in net panels in the farm during the growout period. As
commonly seen in Western Australia and the Northern Territory the net
panels can be placed on well protected surface longlines. The advantages
of this method are that the longlines are both easy and less expensive
to operate. However, the seeded shells in the panels are prone to
disturbing weather conditions like cyclones so common in the region. In
another method which is practiced in Western Australia, the net panels
are placed on longlines, 13 meters deep inside the water, and held by
bottom posts. The advantage of this method is that the shells are less
vulnerable to cyclonic conditions. However the longlines require
continued maintenance by underwater divers.
Regular manual or
mechanical cleaning of implanted shells during the two year culture
period
During the growout period the health conditions of
the oysters must be maintained at an optimum level, in order to ensure
the production of quality pearls. This requires that the implanted
shells be cleaned regularly - usually every 2-4 weeks - throughout the
two-year culture period, either manually using the services of
underwater divers, or mechanically using high pressure cleaning machines
mounted on boats. Cleaning removes the marine growths that can harbor
parasites and diseases.
X-ray scanning of
seeded shells to identify nuclear retention and rejection
Another important procedure carried out during the
husbandry process, 4-6 months after seeding, is the X-ray scanning of
every shell looking for nucleus retention and pearl formation. Shells
that are identified to have rejected nuclei are held separately until
the following year. These shells are re-seeded again the following year
if they are in healthy condition, and show little scarring from the
previous year's attempted seeding. However, if the shells have commenced
the formation of "keshi pearls" as a result of the tissue implant
grafting into the incision and forming a pearl-producing pearl sac, such
shells are left alone and not re-seeded.
Harvesting of
cultured pearls
Harvesting of
cultured pearls takes place during the cooler winter months
After two years of nurturing the seeded oysters in
the growout pearl farms, the cultured pearls are harvested during the
cooler winter months of the year. The time for harvesting is
deliberately chosen due to various reasons, the most important being
that nacre secretion during winter months is slower and more uniform,
and the nacre produced has a maximum luster. Thus by harvesting during
winter months we can have a product with desirable luster. Again, the
lower temperature of the winter reduces both pre-harvest and
post-harvest stress, and thus reduces the mortality of the shells,
increasing the chance of a second implantation.
Extraction of
pearls carried out in the mother ship.
During the harvesting process the net panels
containing the seeded oysters are raised from the sea, and transferred
to the mother ship for the extraction of the pearl. This is a most
exciting period for personnel working on the ship, as until now what
lies in store inside the pearl oysters are not known. The technicians
involved in retrieving the pearls from the oysters take extra
precautions in minimizing any harm or stress to the oysters, as
they can be used again and again for a second, third or even fourth
seeding.
Initial sorting
and grading of pearls on board the mother ship by implantation
technicians
The pearls harvested each day are initially sorted
and graded according to color, size and shape by implantation
technicians on board the ship. This initial sorting becomes necessary as
the implantation technicians are eager to find out the productivity of
their implanted shells, that attract a financial reward, given as an
incentive by the company.
Cleaning, tumbling
and final grading of pearls
The harvested pearls are then transported to the
company's headquarters, where they are first cleaned carefully to remove
any residual mucus or salt. The good quality pearls are then selected
and gently tumbled with a mild abrasive such as cooking salt, that
removes any organic material that still adheres to the pearls, such as
dried mucus. The mild tumbling brings out the full potential of the
pearls, enhancing their luster and iridescence. Pearls of lower grade
are also tumbled using finely ground pumice, that enhance their
smoothness. After cleaning the pearls are classified and graded. The
Paspaley Pearling Company grades their pearls according to five key
criteria, which the company refers to as the five virtues of South Sea
pearls. These are :- Luster, Complexion, Shape, Size and Color. After
grading the pearls are sent to Paspaley's design studio located in
Cullen Bay, Darwin, a peaceful waterside location, that inspires the
company's world class designers to set the most beautiful cultured
pearls in the world, available in a myriad of shapes, colors, and sizes,
in innovative designs, the hallmark of Paspaley's distinctive jewelry
collections.
Percentage yield
of cultured pearls
According to mathematical estimates only around 65 %
of implanted shells finally produce cultured pearls. This figure is
arrived at as follows :- The overall mortality rate for seeded shells,
over the two-year cultivation period is 5%. The 4% of live oysters
initially sacrificed to yield the nacre-secreting graft tissue, which
was implanted together with the nucleus, is added to this, giving a loss
of 9%. A 5% post-operation mortality of shells, increases the loss to 14
%. The nuclei rejection rate after seeding is around 20%, increasing the
loss to 34%. Thus the percentage of implanted shells left healthy enough
to form pearls is 66%, which is approximately 65%, and in agreement with
the above estimate.
Re-seeding of pearl
oysters after obtaining the first yield
At the time of extraction of pearls from the oysters,
those that produce good quality pearls that are marketable are
separated, and out of this only about 60% of shells are selected for
re-seeding, and 40% are rejected. The 60% selected for re-seeding
represent shells that produced the highest quality first crop pearls,
and hence have the potential of producing an acceptable quality second
crop pearl. Re-seeded pearls generally tend to be of lesser quality than
original pearls, hence the reason for selecting only 60% of original
shells for re-seeding. The re-seeded shells are then cultivated for a
further two years under the same conditions as the original shells. The
second crop of pearls produced by re-seeded shells are larger in size as
well as weight. After allowing for mortality and nucleus rejection, out
of the surviving re-seeded shells, only about 40% are suitable for
implantation with a third nucleus. The average size of the third crop of
pearls produced is around 17-19 mm. Yet another implantation might be
possible with the surviving shells, and up to four pearls have sometimes
been produced from a single shell, before the shell is finally discarded
as unsuitable for round pearl production. Statistics maintained for the
production of white South Sea pearls in Western Australia, show that the
output of marketable pearls in the first extraction is around 85%, with
an average weight of 16.5 carats; in the second extraction around 65%,
with an average weight of 21.5-23 carats; and a variable yield in the
third extraction, consisting of large size pearls.
Cultivation of South
Sea Mabe pearls
Mabe pearls are half pearls, hemispherical in shape
and produced inside pearl oysters where the nucleus gets lodged on the
inner surface of the shells, outside the mantle tissue. Under natural
conditions normally only a single mabe pearl may develop inside an
oyster, on the inner surface of one of the two valves. But, technically
the inner surface of both valves have the potential of producing mabe
pearls at the same time, though under natural conditions the possibility
of that happening is very remote. However, pearl culturists have made
use of this ability of the valves of a pearl oyster, to culture two mabe
pearls, one on each valve at the same time.
In the culturing of Australian South Sea pearls, once
a pearl oyster is considered to be incapable of producing further round
pearls, which may be after the first, second or third seeding, the live
and healthy oyster can still be made use of, to produce half pearls or
mabe pearls. Plastic nuclei of hemispherical shape are glued on to the
inner surface of both valves, and the shells are cultivated for a
further 10 to 12 months, during which period a hemispherical cultured
pearl would have grown on the inner surface of each of the valves.
At the time of harvest the shell is killed, and the mabe pearl is cut
out of the shell with a circle-bit drill. The nucleus is then removed
and the cavity filled with an epoxy resin, and backed by a
mother-of-pearl plate. Mabe pearls are also known as blister pearls. Due
to their flattened side, Mabe pearls are the ideal choice for jewelry
such as earrings and rings, which allow for a secure setting , and a
concealed flat back.
The five virtues of
South Sea pearls used by Paspaley in grading their pearls
After harvesting every Paspaley pearl is graded
according to five key criteria which are referred to as the five virtues
of South Sea pearls. These are :- Luster, Complexion, Shape, Size and
Color.
1) Luster
The luster of a pearl, caused by its nacre,
is the single most important determinant of pearl quality. Luster of a
pearl is defined as a measurement of the quality and quantity of light
that reflects from the surface and just under the surface of a pearl. It
represents the reflective quality or brilliance of the surface of the
pearl nacre. High luster is associated with thick nacre, and low luster
with thin nacre. The more lustrous a pearl, the more brilliant and shiny
the pearl appears. On the contrary when a pearl has a low luster it
appears white or chalky. Another light-related effect caused by nacre is
its "Orient," also known as iridescence, which is the unique play of
colors on a pearl's surface. Iridescence is caused by the scattering of
light as it is refracted through successive layers of tiny aragonite
platelets that constitute the inorganic part of the nacre. Saltwater
pearls tend to have a greater luster than freshwater pearls. However
"Orient or Iridescence" is a property characteristic of only saltwater
pearls, and not found in freshwater pearls. The body color of the pearl
is determined by the color of the mother-of-pearl of the shell, in which
the pearl is formed, and caused by colored pigments or biochromes. The
body color of a pearl can be induced or enhanced artificially, but the
orient and luster of a pearl cannot be replicated. Artificial color
enhanced pearls only have a superficial shine.
2) Complexion
Pearls being creations of nature
can have flaws such as blemishes on their surface or imperfections within the pearl's
nacre, referred to as "movement." Complexion is defined as the
presence or absence of flaws on the surface of a pearl. Pearls without
any flaws are said to be of flawless complexion, such as the "Paspaley
Pearl." the subject of this webpage. Pearls with a flawless complexion
are the most valuable. Complexion flaws may or may not interfere with a
pearl's beauty. This depends on the quantity, depth and visibility of
these flaws. Using this as a criterion, Paspaley pearls are further
divided into four grades :- Statement, Fine, Fashion and Foundation,
each one of which refers to a certain quality of the complexion. It is
the combination of luster and complexion that determines the quality of
a pearl.
3) Shape
The shape of a South Sea pearl depends on how
uniformly the layers of nacre are laid around the nucleus of the pearl.
To encourage a uniform deposition of nacre the seeded pearl oysters are
turned around regularly inside their net panels during the three month
post operation period, while still in the nursery, and also after
transferring to the pearl farms. A uniform deposition of nacre leads to
a round or semi-round pearl. Pearl culturists can only encourage the
oysters to produce a spherical pearl, but the ultimate decision lies
with the oyster itself, which may instead decide to produce a baroque
pearl. Seven pearl shapes are recognized by the company. These are :-
round, semi-round, drop, button, baroque, semi-baroque and circle. It is
important to remember that the shape of a pearl does not affect its
quality. A good quality pearl, with brilliant luster and flawless
complexion may have a less desired shape such as baroque or circle, but
still be considered good quality. Likewise a poor quality pearl with a
poor luster and flawed complexion may have the much desired spherical
shape, and still remain poor quality !!!
4) Size
South Sea cultured pearls surpass all other cultured
pearls in terms of size and quality, and correspondingly they have a
much higher value than other cultured pearls. South Sea pearls have
a diameter of between 10 to 16 mm. Pearls larger than this, varying from
16-20 mm and over, do sometimes exist, but are much rarer and highly
prized by connoisseurs. "Due to their greater size and thick nacre that
imparts a deep luster, and make them less likely to discolor or
degenerate, South Sea pearls are 3 to 10 times more expensive than other
varieties of pearls," according to Yoshihiro Shirnizu, president of the
Kobe-based Japan Pearl Exporters Association.
5) Color
The most common and popular body color of South Sea
pearls, is white. Other colors include cream, silver, pink, yellow and
gold or combinations of two colors such as silvery-white and
silvery-pink. These are natural colors of the South Sea pearl shell,
which includes both the silver-lip and golden-lip pearl oyster. Besides
the body color, South Sea pearls also show various overtone colors,
which are translucent colors that appear to float over the surface of
the pearl, and tend to modify the color of the pearl. Whereas body
colors are caused by actual pigments and biochromes, overtones are
caused by the interference of light as it passes through the alternating
layers of aragonite and conchiolin in the nacre.
Limitations of the
pearl culturists - Comments by Nick Paspaley, Executive Chairman,
Paspaley Pearls
In spite of all the efforts by pearl culturists such
as diving for the wild shells, maintaining "nurseries," seeding
operations, turning of seeded shells, transferring to farms for the
growout period, cleaning of shells every 2-4 weeks during the two-year
culture period etc. human intervention has little control over what the
oyster does after the seeding operation. In fact it is the oyster that
decides all important characteristics that the future pearl would
possess, such its size, shape, body color, overtones, luster etc. etc. This
is summed up in a comment made by Nick Paspaley, the owner of the
Paspaley Pearling Company Pty. Ltd., "We don't have control over what
the shell does with the pearl itself. It decides what color it's going
to produce. It decides if it's going to produce fine nacre or coarse.
And if the rainbow of colors are in the pearl or not. We control what we
do but nature controls the rest."
Discovery of the
Paspaley Pearl in the year 2002
Pearl farms operated
by Paspaley Pearls
Paspaley Pearl Pty. Ltd. operates around 20 pearl
farms which are scattered along 2,500 km of mostly uninhabited
coastline, stretching from the Cobourg Peninsula to the northeast of
Darwin, in the Northern Territory, to Dampier in Western Australia. Most
of the farms are situated in isolated bays that provide some protection
from the seasonal cyclones, and most importantly contain pollutant-free
pristine waters, that can sustain the sensitive Pinctada maxima oysters,
and encourage the growth of microscopic plankton on which the oysters
thrive.
The Vansittart Bay
pearl farm
One such pearl farm is situated in the Vansittart
Bay, in the Indian Ocean off the northeast coast of Western Australia.
Vansittart Bay has a tropical climate, with a wet and dry season. The
wet season extends from November to May, with a total rainfall of 780
mm, most of which falls in January. The dry season which extends from
June to October has a total rainfall of less than 60 mm. The
temperatures in the wet season vary between 31°C to
32.9°C during the day and 25.2°C and 27.2°C in the night. In the dry
season temperatures vary between 28°C and 31.5°C during the day and
22.1°C and 26°C during the night. The slightly lower day and night
temperatures in the dry season corresponds with the winter season in the
temperate regions of Southern Australia.
Discovery of the "Paspaley Pearl" on the day Nick Paspaley visits the
Vansittart Bay farm
In the year 2002, the Vansittart
Bay pearl farm was taking their annual harvest. The net panels
containing the seeded oysters that had been nurtured for two years, were
raised from the sea and transferred to the mother ship for the
extraction of the pearls. Almost by good fortune Nick Paspaley AC, the
Executive Chairman of the company, was
visiting the Vansittart Bay farm on that particular day. Coincidentally
that same day the implantation technicians working on the ship, who were
also responsible for retrieving the cultured pearls after their growth
period, discovered what is arguably the most significant cultured pearl
in modern history, an event that made the Paspaley's 2002 harvest
a most significant and memorable one. The pearl was one of the most
perfectly rounded pearls ever harvested, and had a uniform diameter of
20.4 mm, a flawless complexion, and an extraordinary luster, with a soft
pink overtone. When the news of the discovery
spread among the crew of the ship work paused on the ship for some
moments.
The
Paspaley Pearl - the Pearl of all Pearls
This unique pearl whose
discovery heralded the Chairman's visit to the Vansittart Bay farm on
that day, was eventually christened the "Paspaley Pearl" a most
appropriate name, symbolic of the extraordinary beauty of the world
renowned Paspaley's cultured South Sea pearls, the crème de la crème of
all pearls worldwide, whose beauty is achieved not by any artificial
enhancement, but by going into partnership with nature, and providing
all ideal natural conditions required for the successful development of
a cultured pearl. Nick Paspaley AC, summed up his feelings on this
natural miracle, when he made the following comments :- "I have never
seen a pearl like this and I believe that there has never been a pearl
in the world anywhere of this size and quality. It really is the "pearl
of pearls." It has an intense pink coming from within, the finest nacre,
perfect shape, perfect color and luster - truly unbelievable. We may
never see another pearl like this one again." The "Paspaley Pearl"
has now become the most outstanding pearl in the unique collection of
the finest pearls maintained by the company.
The
Paspaley Pearl displayed at the "Allure of Pearls" exhibition
The "Paspaley Pearl" was one of a rare grouping of 12
pearls, each with its own history, beauty and science, that went on
display at the "Allure of Pearls" exhibition held between March 12 and
September 5, 2005, at the Harry Winston Gallery, of the Janet Annenberg
Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems and Minerals, of the National Museum of
Natural History of the Smithsonian Institution, and co-sponsored by the
Gemological Institute of America, Paspaley Pearls Pty. Ltd. and Iridesse
Pearls. The pearl was loaned for the exhibition by Paspaley Pearls Pty.
Ltd., the major producer of white South Sea pearls in Australia, with
its headquarters based in Darwin, Australia.
Paspaley, the leading
producer and distributor of the world's finest pearls
Australia is the world's largest producer of South
Sea pearls, whose value in 1998 was estimated at US$220 million.
Paspaley Pearls Pty. Ltd. was responsible for over 50% of this annual
production. Thus, Paspaley Pearls Pty. Ltd. is undoubtedly the
world's largest producer of South Sea pearls. Today the company has a
world class design studio in Darwin, whose talented and experienced
designers set the most beautiful cultured pearls in the world, in
innovative designs, that has become the hallmark of Paspaley's jewelry
collections, available through a network of Paspaley Boutiques in
Australia, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Hong Kong and Tokyo. The company's clients
also include some of the world's leading jewelry houses, such as Tiffany
& Co., David Yurman, Cartier and Harry Winston.
Related :-
1)
Paspaley Drop-shaped Pearls
2)
Imperial Hong Kong Pearl
External Links :-
1)
www.paspaleypearls.com
2)
www.gem.org.au
References :-
1) The Australian Pearling Industry and It's Pearls - Grahame Brown,
www.gem.org.au
2) Website of Paspaley Pearls Pty. Ltd. -
www.paspaleypearls.com
3) The Allure of Pearls -
www.mnh.si.edu/exhibits/pearls/intro.htm
4) South Sea Pearls - www.pearl-guide.com
5) South Sea Pearls - www.americanpearl.com
6) Pearl - From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
7) The Australian Pearls and the Greek Connection -
www.arafura.net
8) GIA Alumni Pearl Tour - Paspaley Pearls,
www.pearl-guide.com
9) Paspaley - From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
