Origin of Name :-
The name refers to an exceptionally beautiful
four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace, of unknown provenance,
comprising of graduated natural pearls separated by diamond rondelle
spacers, whose centerpiece is a vertical row of four graduated spherical
pearls, with vari-cut diamond surrounds, from which a large
button-shaped pearl, also with a diamond surround is suspended. The
necklace appeared at Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale,
No. 7664, held on April 29, 2008, at Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel,
Dubai, United Arab Emirates, where after a keenly contested bid, was
sold for a whopping USD 1,743, 400 within the pre-sale estimated range
of USD 1,800,000 to USD 2,200,000. The price realized was in keeping
with the strong auction demand for natural pearls registered with the
turn of the millennium, a trend that still seems to be going very
strong.
Superb four row natural pearl and diamond necklace
Please click here for an enlarged image (External
Link)
©
Christie's
Characteristics of
the four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace
The necklace falls
under a choker in the modern classification of pearl necklaces
The necklace consists of four graduated rows of
pearls. The length of the necklace is given as 38.0 cm (15 inches). This
obviously refers to the average length of the necklace, as there are
significant differences between the lengths of each row. Under the
modern system of classification of pearl necklaces based on their
lengths, the necklace is a "choker" whose range of length varies from 14
to 16 inches.
The number, size and
arrangement of pearls in the necklace
The number of pearls on each of the strands from the
lower to the upper strands are respectively 59, 57, 51, and 51,
inclusive of the central pearl, that forms the centerpiece of the
necklace. Thus the total number of natural pearls in the necklace are 59
+ 57 + 51 + 51, plus the single large pearl suspended from the center,
giving a total of 219 pearls. The size of the pearls in the necklace
vary from 4.7 mm to 10.6 mm. The size of the pearls gradually decrease
from the centerpiece towards the clasp. The largest four pearls are
incorporated as the centerpiece, and each of the rows begins from this
centerpiece. The four pearls of the centerpiece are surrounded by vari-cut
diamonds. In each of these diamond surrounds, the larger diamonds are
situated on the lower side of the central pearls, and smaller diamonds
on the upper side. Due to this arrangement the diamond surrounds appear
to be crescent shaped.
The use of diamond
rondelle spacers in the necklace
An important feature in this necklace is the use of
diamond rondelle spacers, between individual pearls, separating them
from one another. These spacers are placed in every row of the necklace,
except at the points where the rows originate from the centerpiece. Some
of these diamond rondelle spacers seem to have fallen off the necklace
at a few points, perhaps indicating its antiquity.
Characteristics of
the single large suspended pearl
A single large button-shaped pearl is suspended from
the centerpiece of the necklace, with a longest and shortest diameter of
21.6 mm and 17.0 mm respectively. The variation in diameter of the pearl
is (1 - shortest diameter/longest diameter) x 100% = (1 - 17.0/21.6) x
100% = (1 - 0.79) x 100% = 0.21 x 100 = 21% Pearls having a variation in
diameter greater the 20% are known as button pearls. Thus, this single
large pearl with a variation in diameter of 21%, is indeed a
button-shaped pearl. The weight of this button-shaped pearl is 54.83
carats, which is equal to 54.83 x 4 grains = 219.32 grains. This single
large button-shaped pearl also has a crescent shaped diamond surround, as
the four pearls in the vertical row just above it. The length of the
vertical row which is the centerpiece of the necklace, inclusive of the
suspended pearl is 11.0 cm.
The shape of the
pearls in the necklace
Apart from the suspended pearl which is
button-shaped, other pearls in the necklace are said to be graduated
pearls. At a glance these pearls appear to be spherical; however closer
examination of these pearls reveal that not all of them are perfectly
spherical, but there are also near-spherical and button-shaped pearls
among them. This can be clearly seen when the photograph is zoomed to
increase the size of the pearls. The fact that these pearls are not all
spherical in shape, seem to agree with their natural provenance. Unlike
cultured pearls, matching for size and shape in natural pearls is an
extremely difficult task, due to the multitude of shapes in which they
occur, including the commonly found baroque shapes. Thus an unlimited
supply of natural pearls will be needed to put together a necklace such
as this, that matches both in size and shape.
The color and
overtones of the pearls in the necklace
The color of the pearls in the necklace are white,
the most sought-after color in pearls. White is the body color of the
pearls. However, a close examination of the pearls after zooming show
that all pearls in the necklace have a pink overtone. Thus, the actual
color of the pearls in the necklace is pinkish-white. It is important to
note that the pink overtone is not caused by a pigment, but it is the
result of an optical effect as light passes through successive layers of
aragonite. The fact that all pearls in the necklace have the same color
and overtone, shows that they arose from the same saltwater oyster
species, and perhaps from the same environment.
The luster and orient
of the pearls
Luster or brilliance of a pearl is a reflective
quality, caused by the reflection of light from the surface and just
below the surface of a pearl. An examination of these pearls show that
their luster and brilliance is exceptional in keeping with their
saltwater origins. The orient of a pearl is caused by refraction, when
white light is scattered into its constituent colors as it passes through
successive layers of aragonite. Both luster and orient of pearls, like
overtone colors, depend on the thickness of the nacre, which is maximum
for natural pearls, being made entirely of nacre.
History of the
four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace
Can the Persian Gulf
or the Gulf of Mannar in Sri Lanka be the source of the pearls in this
necklace ?
From the range of size, color and overtones of the
pearls in the necklace, we can predict the saltwater oyster species in
which the pearls were produced, and from the geographic range of this
oyster, predict the source of the pearls. The pearls vary in size
from 4.7 mm to 10.6 mm. They are white in color with pinkish overtones.
This is consistent with pearls produced by the saltwater oyster species
Pinctada radiata, the most prolific pearl producer since ancient times,
and the source of the first pearls known to mankind, whose natural
habitat was the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea and the Gulf of Mannar. The
species also produced large quantities of seed pearls. The common colors
of pearls produced by this species are white and yellow, with overtones
of silver, pink and cream. Ceylon pearls from the Gulf of Mannar, were
renowned for their desirable white body color, with silver and pink
overtones, producing silvery-white and pinkish white pearls. Pearls with
yellow and golden hues were rare among Ceylon pearls. Among the Persian
Gulf pearls too silvery-white and pinkish-white pearls were found, but
pearls with yellowish hues were more common. Thus, the source of the
pearls in this necklace could be the former traditional source of pearls
in the world, either the Persian Gulf or Ceylon (Sri Lanka).
Can Venezuela be the
source of the pearls in the necklace?
Pinctada radiata is closely related to the Atlantic
pearl oyster species, Pinctada imbricata. In fact it is now believed
that both belong to one and the same species, with minor regional
variations. Thus Pinctada radiata is believed to be synonymous with
Pinctada imbricata. The Atlantic pearl oyster on which the pearl
industry of Venezuela was based in the 16th and 17th centuries, before
the industry was abandoned due to depletion of resources, also produced
pearls of the range 4 mm to 10 mm, apart from seed pearls. These pearl
oysters also produced white and yellow pearls with pink, silver and
cream overtones. Thus the pinkish-white pearls in this necklace could
also have originated in Venezuela in the 16th or 17th centuries.
Significance of the
vari-cut diamonds surrounding the central pearls in the necklace
Vari-cut diamonds are used in the diamond surrounds
of the central pearls of the necklace including the suspended pearl. The
diamond cuts include a variety of cuts such as rose-cut, old-mine cut,
and old-European cut. Modern brilliant cut diamonds are not among them.
Perhaps, this may give an indication as to the period when the necklace
was put together. The rose-cut was introduced in the 1500s, old-mine cut
in the 1700s, and the old-European cut in the 1800s. However, these cuts
survived up to the early 20th-century, until the introduction of the
modern brilliant-cut by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. Thus, the possible
period of the designing of the necklace is the 19th-century, when all
the three diamond cuts mentioned above existed together.
Significance of the
use of diamond rondelle spacers in the necklace
Rondelle - A Rondelle is a diamond disk that has
faceted edges. The discs being somewhat flat, are generally cut from
rough diamonds that are usually flat initially. These are mostly used as
spacers between colored stones, and pearls. These flattened disks come
in the range of 2mm to 6mm. The diamond rondelles like diamond beads are
drilled to make a passage for the thread. Such diamond rondelle spacers
came into use in necklaces only after the production of diamond drilling
machines, in the 20th-century. Thus, in all probability the diamond
rondelle spacers were actually a later addition to the 19th-century
necklace.
Laboratory report
issued by the Gemological Technology Laboratory, Geneva
At the Christie's auction held in Dubai, on April 29,
2008, the four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace, that appeared
under Lot No.178, was accompanied by a lab report bearing No. 07-G-0112,
dated May 14, 2007, issued by the Gemological Technology Laboratory,
Geneva, which authenticated the natural provenance of the pearls.
Comparison of the
price realized for the four-row pearl and diamond necklace with the
prices realized for the other pearl incorporated jewelry pieces at the
auctions
The highest bid at
the auction was realized by the superb four-row natural pearl and
diamond necklace
The historical provenance of the superb four-row
natural pearl and diamond necklace is not known. Yet, based purely on
the antique features of the necklace, and the quality of the natural
saltwater pearls incorporated in the necklace, with their exceptional
color, overtones, luster, orient, and the shape and size range of the
pearls, whose natural authenticity was supported by a laboratory report
from a reputed gemological laboratory in Geneva, a pre-sale estimate of
$1.8 million to 2.2 million was placed on the necklace. The natural
pearl enthusiasts of the Middle East, who had assembled for the auction,
were well convinced of the high value placed for the necklace, and hence
the keen bidding that followed to acquire it, which was eventually sold
for $1,743,400, still within the estimated range. This was the highest
bid realized for a piece of pearl jewelry at the auctions, out of the 15
lots of pearl jewelry at stake. See table below.
The second highest
bid at the auction was realized by Umm Kulthum's nine-row satlada type
natural pearl necklace
The second highest bid realized by a piece of pearl
jewelry at the auctions was the Umm Kulthum's nine-row satlada type
pearl necklace, that was gifted to her by the late ruler of the United
Arab Emirates, His Highness Sheik Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, in the
early 1970s. The necklace realized a staggering $1,385,000, after a
keenly fought bid for its possession. This was nearly 12 times higher
than the upper pre-sale estimate of $120,000. The unprecedented demand
for the necklace was no doubt associated with its historical provenance,
once owned by the greatest and most popular singer the Arab World had
ever produced. Thus, historical provenance plays an important part in
determining the value of an antique piece of jewelry. If, the superb
four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace had a historical provenance
associated with it, its final value would have been more than double or
treble the value realized at the auction. The Baroda Pearl necklace made
up of only two rows of 68 high-quality pearls, with a strong historical
provenance, holds the world record price set for an antique natural
pearl necklace, at an auction, which is $7,096,000. This record was set
in April 2007.
Seven lots out of
15 registered prices far above the upper pre-sale estimates
Out of the 15 lots of pearl jewelry sold at the
auctions, 7 lots realized prices in excess of the upper pre-sale
estimates. This is an indication of the strong auction market for
natural pearls and jewelry incorporating such pearls, a trend that began
with the new millennium about to be inaugurated, with the sale of the
Barbara Hutton Pearl Necklace in November 1999 for $1,470,000.
Table of the 15 lots
of pearl jewelry that appeared at the Christie's auction in Dubai on
April 29, 2008, giving the pre-sale estimates and final prices realized
| S/N |
Lot No. |
Lot Description |
Pre-Sale Estimate |
Price Realized |
| 1 |
147 |
An imposing antique Indian natural pearl nine-row
necklace that belonged to Umm Kulthum, the legendary Egyptian singer |
$80,000-$120,000 |
$1,385,000 |
| 2 |
148 |
A fine pair of natural pearl and diamond ear pendants |
$60,000-$80,000 |
$157,000 |
| 3 |
149 |
An attractive natural black pearl ring |
$50,000-$70,000 |
$43,000 |
| 4 |
154 |
An attractive antique natural pearl and diamond pendent
brooch |
$60,000-$80,000 |
$97,000 |
| 5 |
155 |
A natural pearl and diamond pendent necklace |
$25,000-$35,000 |
$43,000 |
| 6 |
156 |
A natural pearl and diamond necklace |
$150,000-$180,000 |
$205,000 |
| 7 |
158 |
A pair of natural pearl earrings |
$20,000-$30,000 |
$29,800 |
| 8 |
159 |
A pretty group of natural pearl and diamond jewelry |
$35,000-$45,000 |
$73,000 |
| 9 |
160 |
An attractive pair of antique natural pearl and diamond
ear pendants |
$180,000-$250,000 |
$217,000 |
| 10 |
162 |
A natural pearl, diamond and ruby pendent necklace |
$45,000-$50,000 |
$94,600 |
| 11 |
163 |
A four-row natural pearl necklace |
$50,000-$80,000 |
$61,000 |
| 12 |
166 |
A highly important orange natural pearl |
$600,000-$800,000 |
$713,000 |
| 13 |
172 |
An important pearl and diamond suite, by Gerard |
$400,000-$600,000 |
$481,000 |
| 14 |
174 |
An exceptional belle époque natural grey/brown pearl
pendant necklace |
$700,000-$1,000,000 |
$769,000 |
| 15 |
178 |
A superb four-row natural pearl and diamond necklace |
$1,800,000 -$2,200,000 |
$1,743,400 |
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world in our
FORUMS (forums.internetstones.com)
Related :-
1)
Umm Kulthum's 9-stranded pearl necklace
2)
Baroda Pearl Necklace
3)
Four-Row Natural Pearl Necklace
External Links :-
1)
A Superb Natural Pearl And Diamond Necklace -
Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale Catalogue. Sale No.
7664, Lot No. 178. www.christies.com
References :-
1) A Superb Natural Pearl And Diamond Necklace -
Christie's Contemporary Jewelry and Watches Sale Catalogue. Sale No.
7664, Lot No. 178. www.christies.com
